MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE: SCALING NOVEL BUSINESS MODELS IN THE NASCENT
ONLINE FASHION INDUSTRY
RON TIDHAR
Department of Management Science and Engineering
Stanford University
rtidhar@stanford.edu
KATHLEEN M. EISENHARDT
Department of Management Science and Engineering
Stanford University
kme@stanford.edu
January 15, 2020
Abstract: This paper explores how promising ventures build novel business models that enable
profitable growth (i.e., scale). By studying 3 venture-pairs with different business model templates in the
nascent online fashion industry, we contribute a theoretical framework describes a phased process:
successful entrepreneurs first 1) slowly design a simple, profitable core transaction by purposefully
delaying growth, and then 2) sequentially build a core capability followed by an activity system that creates
advantage and accelerates scaling. In contrast, less successful entrepreneurs focus on growth, learn quickly
but narrowly, and end up with an often complex and unprofitable core transaction that cannot scale. While
these ventures may grow quickly at first, they soon fade. Overall, our framework is reminiscent of Aesop’s
classic fable about the race between the tortoise v. hare. We also add insights about the role of data science,
optimal distinctiveness and extreme scalability, and about the process of how firms grow and more
significantly, scale. Overall, we indicate how promising ventures become successful adolescent firms.
Keywords: business models, activity systems, capability-building, multi-case theory building, strategy.
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INTRODUCTION
In 2019, WeWork filed for an IPO at a stunning $47 billion valuation. Offering plush co-working
spaces that boasted mid-century style furniture and free cucumber water, WeWork grew rapidly in
nine years. Its attractive offering earned 80% occupancy and $1.8 billion in 2018 revenues. Yet,
the transition from promising venture to adolescent firm was difficult. WeWork’s IPO filing
revealed that in pursuing high growth, costs vastly outstripped revenue. Overnight, WeWork’s
valuation plummeted, the CEO was replaced, and the IPO was indefinitely postponed.
As this vignette suggests, a scalable (i.e., high-growth yet profitable) business model is
ultimately essential for many promising ventures to become successful adolescent firms.
Consistent with others, we define a business model as the system of interconnected activities
performed by a focal firm (and perhaps by users and partners) to create value, with part of that
value captured by the firm (Zott et al., 2011; McDonald and Eisenhardt, 2020). This definition
broadly includes business models at both an abstract level as cognitive schemas (e.g., “razor and
blade”) and at a granular level as linked elements: 1) value proposition i.e., value that a product
provides over substitutes, 2) profit logic i.e., how firm captures value, and 3) activity system
i.e., organizational processes and related resources that create value (Amit and Zott, 2015; Johnson
et al., 2008). By scalable, we mean a business model that achieves profitable growth, and often
requires linking external growth (e.g., revenue, customers) and profitability with internal growth
(e.g., headcount) (see also Chandler, 1990; DeSantola and Gulati, 2017).
WeWork, for example, offered small businesses a flexible and comfortable shared work
spaces (better value than stodgy alternatives). It created this service through a combination of
activities like interior design, office management, and prime location (activity system creating
value) and charged renters (capturing some value, but clearly not enough to profit).
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With dropping computing and communication costs and rising Internet ubiquity, business
models are becoming increasingly diverse, theoretically relevant, and managerially significant.
They are central to long-term survival and growth (Massa et al., 2017). While some ventures may
persist with rapid but unprofitable growth (e.g., LinkedIn, WeWork), those without a profitable
business model will ultimately fail as standalone firms (McDonald and Eisenhardt, 2020). Beyond
their influence on performance (Casadesus-Masanell and Zhu, 2010), new business models often
open nascent markets (Gilbert, 2005) and are major sources of innovation (Casadesus-Masanell
and Zhu, 2013; Snihur and Zott, 2020). Examples like Airbnb, UpWork, and Uber, created new
markets and changed how people live, travel, and work (Demil et al., 2015).
Prior research makes headway in understanding how entrepreneurs design high-performing
business models. One stream identifies characteristics of high-performing business models (Zott
and Amit, 2008). Broadly, this work suggests that novel business models reach higher stock
valuations (Zott and Amit, 2007). Other work points to specific firms like Xerox (Chesbrough and
Rosenbloom, 2002) and Walmart (BreaSols et al., 2015) with novel business models that
performed new activities in unique ways. Other work studies optimal distinctiveness i.e.,
balancing being similar yet different from others as a key characteristic (Hargadon and Douglas,
2001; Wry, Lounsbury, and Jennings, 2014; Navis and Glynn, 2010). For example, in a study of
the video game market, Zhao and colleagues (2018) find that conforming is useful early on while
being novel later is effective. Still other work suggests that fit among elements of a business model
is useful (Tidhar and Eisenhardt, 2020). Collectively, this stream emphasizes novel, optimally
distinct business models that fit as characteristics of high-performing business models.
A second stream emphasizes the process of how entrepreneurs design business models.
This and other work emphasizes processes in contexts with ambiguity, uncertainty, and rapid
change (Rindova and Kotha, 2001; Bingham and Davis, 2012; Raffaelli, 2018). These processes
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include experimentation (e.g., Tripsas and Murray, 2004; Ozcan and Eisenhardt, 2009; Andries et
al., 2013), bricolage (Baker and Nelson, 2005), and trial-and-error (Rindova and Kotha, 2001;
Zuzul and Tripsas, 2020; Katila et al., 2008). Recent research suggests that effective entrepreneurs
use a broad repertoire of learning processes, and astutely pace their action in order to design
effective business models. For example, McDonald and Eisenhardt (2020) study five early-stage
ventures in a nascent fintech market. The effective teams engaged in trial-and-error and
experimentation, but also vicarious learning by imitating others and passive learning by pausing to
observe. Further, Ott and Eisenhardt (2020) point to the role of problem solving to organize
learning. Collectively, this research suggests that learning, bricolage and problem solving
processes are central to designing high-performing business models.
Overall, the first stream indicates that high-performing business models are novel and
optimally distinct with elements that fit together (Zott and Amit, 2007; Navis and Glynn, 2010;
Tidhar and Eisenhardt, 2020). Yet, this work leaves open how entrepreneurs actually build such
business models. The second stream highlights how organizational processes like learning help
entrepreneurs to design the template of a promising business model (e.g., Andries et al., 2013;
McDonald and Eisenhardt, 2020). Yet, since this work looks at early survival and growth, it stops
short of what entrepreneurs do as their ventures transition into adolescent firms, and so attempt to
both profit and grow. Broadly, entrepreneurial research rarely considers profitability, and
examines growth primarily by studying its antecedents and outcomes (Burton and Beckman, 2007;
Eisenhardt and Schoonhoven, 1990), not the process itself. Thus, this work leaves open how firms
grow and more significantly, scale i.e., achieve profitable growth. To address this gap, we ask:
How do entrepreneurs build scalable business models in nascent markets?
Given limited theory and empirical evidence, we adopt a multiple-case theory-building
approach (Eisenhardt, 1989). The setting is the nascent online fashion industry that emerged
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around 2010 with several novel business models. Using in-depth interview data and archival
sources, we closely track three venture-pairs with distinct business models from founding until
they reached profitability or exited. A unique feature is our spotlight on adolescent ventures a
critical stage where promising ventures like WeWork often stumble. A second unique feature is
highlighting the compelling role of data science for high-performing business models. We also
take advantage of a turnaround to sharpen causality. Finally, while all of the ventures were initially
promising, only one in each pair achieved high growth and profitability (i.e., scaled).
We contribute at the intersection of strategy, organization theory, and entrepreneurship.
Our primary contribution is an emergent theoretical framework for how entrepreneurs build high-
growth, profitable (i.e., scalable) business models. Our theoretical framework indicates that
successful entrepreneurs first 1) slowly design a simple, profitable core transaction by
purposefully delaying growth, and then 2) sequentially build a core capability followed by an
activity system that creates advantage and accelerates scaling. In contrast, less successful
entrepreneurs focus on growth (not profit), learn quickly but narrowly, and end up with an often
complex and unprofitable core transaction that cannot scale. While these ventures grow quickly at
first, they often fade. Overall, our framework is reminiscent of Aesop’s classic fable about the race
between the tortoise v. hare.
We make several contributions. First, we contribute to the learning literature by indicating
how conceptualization and problem solving shape when and what is learned. Thus, while prior
research emphasizes learning per se (e.g., Andries et al., 2013; Bingham and Davis, 2012; Ott and
Eisenhardt, 2020), we indicate what is actually learned, when, and how that learning is organized.
Second, we add to the literature on optimal distinctiveness (e.g., Navis and Glynn, 2010; Zhao et
al., 2018). Specifically, we sketch how data science amplifies optimal distinctiveness, enables
extreme scaling, and underlies capabilities that become “cheaper” and smarter with growth.
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Broadly, we contribute to organization theory by introducing activity systems as a core
feature of internal organization. Prior work focuses on attributes like team composition (Burton
and Beckman, 2007; Snihur and Zott, 2020), organizational design (Gilbert, 2005) and culture
(DeSantola and Gulati, 2017). In contrast, activity systems describe the linked processes, skills,
and assets by which work gets done. We also contribute insights into adolescent firms by noting
that they grow on the scaffolding of a simple, profitable core transaction. In contrast, without that
scaffolding, adolescent firms may grow but not for long, fail to become profitable, and fade.
METHODS
Given the limited theory and empirical evidence, we use multi-case theory-building (Eisenhardt,
1989). We use multiple cases because they typically yield emergent theory that is more robust and
generalizable than single cases (Eisenhardt and Graebner, 2007). This approach also fits with
process questions such as ours (Langley, 1999).
We began with an interest in how entrepreneurs build business models in nascent markets.
We considered several nascent markets like music streaming and online real estate before we
chose online fashion. Online fashion fits our research question well. First, several novel business
models emerged, making it a particularly rich setting for studying business models. Second, while
online fashion relies on sophisticated computing technologies, it also involves physical products
that introduce operational complexity like inventory that make scalable business models more
difficult to achieve. Third, since online fashion emerged recently (around 2010), we can study its
pioneering ventures more easily with first-hand data while avoiding left-censoring issues.
We began by collecting data on several prominent ventures with novel business models. By
novel business models, we mean those that add new ways to create value beyond just a new sales
channel (Zott and Amit, 2007). As we learned more, we saw other ventures with similar business
model templates and a third template. Thus, our sample became six online fashion ventures (i.e.,
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three pairs) (Table 1). The templates were: (1) retail with personal styling (i.e., buy clothing, select
and send items to online customers who then choose to buy or not), (2) rental (i.e., acquire clothes
and rent to online customers), (3) second-hand marketplace (i.e., match second-hand clothing of
online sellers with online buyers). While each template broadly addresses the same nascent market
(online fashion), they face varied challenges: clothing recommendations (high for personal styling,
low for rental), logistics (high for rental, low for marketplaces), community engagement (high for
marketplaces, low for personal styling), and time sensitivity (high for rental, low for personal
styling). This theoretical (not random) sampling of ventures and business models allows for
replication within and across business models, and so improves reliability and generalizability.
Although we did not sample on founder attributes, the pairs have similar founding teams
i.e., size (about 2), age (about 30), education (mostly elite MBA), and entrepreneurship experience
(little or none). The exception is MarketMagic that has an older (about 37) and larger founding
team (4) with a prior venture success. Consistent with our focal interest in the scaling process,
these ventures were all promising and secured seed and Series A funding. As our study progressed,
we realized that while all these ventures achieved some success, one member of each pair out-
performed the other, grew more, and became profitable.
Data collection
We draw on multiple data sources: 1) archival materials such as news media, company documents,
and teaching cases, 2) interviews with internal informants such as founders and executives, 3)
interviews with external informants such as board members, customers, and analysts, 4) shopping
experiences by research team members, and 5) informal emails and phone calls to clarify details.
These multiple sources enable triangulation among data sources and improve accuracy
(DeBenigno and Kellogg, 2014; Eisenhardt, 1989; Glaser & Strauss, 1967) (Table 2).
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We began collecting data in 2017. For archival data, we used Google, Crunchbase,
LexisNexis, and Factiva to search for all media articles that mentioned each venture since
inception. The first author read all media accounts for each venture. While many articles mention
the ventures, we concentrated on focal articles that are substantial (i.e., at least 750 words) and
foreground one or perhaps a few firms in detail. These focal articles appeared in major newspapers
(e.g., New York Times, Wall Street Journal), business outlets (e.g., Forbes), and technology-
oriented press (e.g., TechCrunch). Focal articles typically cover recent events like product
launches, and discuss the venture’s actions, strategy, rivals, business model, and history. We
continued this data collection during the study. We also added data from company websites
(including archival web-scrapes of early websites using Archive.org), company blogs and venture-
related social media during the study. While these latter sources were often not relevant to our
research, a few instances were useful to triangulate event dates and observe attempts to boost sales
like marketing promotions. We also draw on five teaching cases. These were valuable sources that
usually covered industry history, founding events, rivals and substitutes, and changing strategy,
structure, and business model of the focal venture and sometimes of other ventures.
We collected 103 interviews with internal and external informants. We conducted 40 semi-
structured interviews in two waves with internal informants i.e., founders, executive team
members, and managers across functions (e.g., product, community, merchandising, data science).
These interviews provided rich insights such as about key events, actions, and their rationale. We
also conducted six interviews with external informants including board members, customers, and
analysts. We supplemented these interviews with 57 online interviews with internal informants.
These began within the first two years of founding for all ventures and continued until the study
end. The interviews are a rich source of real-time early information. These triangulated data from
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multiple relevant perspectives and times provide a richer and more reliable understanding of
building business models than any single source could provide (Miller et al., 1997).
We conducted our interviews with a semi-structured guide. First, we asked informants to
describe their role briefly. Second, we asked them to provide a chronological account of the focal
venture’s history (since founding or the prior interview). For external informants, we adjusted the
guide to fit their knowledge like industry (analysts) and products (customers). The interviews were
30-90 minutes in length, and were recorded and transcribed. We took several steps to improve data
validity. First, we gave anonymity to informants to encourage candor. Second, we also used
interview techniques such as nondirective questioning to gather open-ended narratives and
minimize response bias (Eisenhardt and Graebner, 2007). Third, we triangulated events and
actions described in interviews where possible with our archival data such as media articles,
teaching cases, company communications, and with other interviews. Fourth, within each venture,
we gathered interviews at several levels (e.g., CEO, executives, board) and across functional areas
(e.g., product, merchandising, logistics, data science). Overall, our rich and varied interview and
archival data sources offer a more complete view than any one source or informant. Collectively,
they provide a holistic view of venture history and detailed data from multiple perspectives.
Data analysis
Consistent with multi-case theory building (Eisenhardt and Graebner, 2007), we began analysis by
writing detailed case histories for each firm. Per above, we triangulated data from multiple
sources. The archival data (including focal articles) were particularly useful for building an initial
timeline, as well as triangulating key events and activities described by informants. The interview
data were particularly useful for fleshing out timelines and rich process details that were
unavailable in the archival data (e.g., decision making, alternatives considered but not pursued).
The five teaching cases were primarily useful for industry history, timelines, founding narratives,
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and details about evolving organizational structures, hiring, strategies, and business models. One
author wrote initial case drafts, while the other reviewed the data independently. The few
inconsistencies were resolved by returning to the data or following up with informants if
necessary. The resulting cases were each 60-100 single-spaced pages in length.
We next conducted within-case analysis. We analyzed each case independently with
respect to our research question, and developed initial constructs and themes. During this analysis,
we realized that Series A funding provided a natural breakpoint to structure our analysis into two
eras. It signals that the venture has a business model template, and professional investors believe
that the venture is positioned to grow i.e., ready to scale (Hallen and Eisenhardt, 2012). As one
venture capitalist investor commented, Series A is to “Prove you’re a business, not an
experiment… prove you can grow fast”. Another said, “Series A is all about scaling.” We ended
our analysis when the venture reached profitability or exited.
After analyzing each case independently, we turned to cross-case analysis using constant
comparison between theory and data (Glaser and Strauss, 1967) and replication logic (Yin, 1984).
We compared cases within pairs, across pairs, and across varied combinations of ventures. We
facilitated this analysis with diagrams, tables, and charts (Miles & Huberman, 1994). As we
refined our analysis, we further iterated among the emerging theory, data, and prior research. Once
we had strong correspondence among the data, constructs, and theoretical relationships, we
finalized our emergent theoretical framework.
Measures
Our research question asks: How do entrepreneurs build scalable business models in nascent
markets? As noted earlier, we define scaling as achieving profitable growth. Similar to DeSantola
and Gulati (2017), scaling thus synchronizes external growth and profitability with internal growth
like headcount. We assessed whether a venture achieved scaling using several objective and
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subjective measures (Table 3). First, we assessed external growth directly with annual revenue
measures including revenue at the end of the study and post-study, and growth rate in Era 2. We
also indirectly assessed external growth with indicators available only to high-growth firms with
profitable or expected-to-be profitable business models i.e., whether the venture a) received
Series D funding, b) reached a $1 billion “unicorn” valuation and c) had an IPO.
Second, we measured profitability. We combined informant disclosures, internal company
financials, and archival sources to assess when (if at all) the venture reached full-year profitability.
Third, we measured internal growth using business model-specific indicators assessed at the end of
the study. For the retail business model, we used number of employees. For the rental business
model, we tracked inventory (i.e., number of items). For the marketplace business model, we used
community size (i.e., number of users). Finally, we also assessed scaling with subjective
assessments of performance from internal and external informants, and the media.
Overall, there is substantial variation across the ventures. StyleStar built a successful
business model that reached profitability with $300M in revenue, and supported an IPO and
international expansion. It was hailed by the media as reinventing retail”. RentRoyale also built a
successful business model that reached profitability with $100M in revenue and became a
“unicorn” post study. An analyst touted, “RentRoyale is at the leading edge of driving change in
the fashion industry”. MarketMagic is a fortuitous turnaround that bolsters causal inference. It
built a successful business model that reached profitability with $80M in revenue and became a
“unicorn”. In contrast, StyleStuck, RentWreck, and MarketMiss grew but not as much, never
reached profitability, and exited.
EMERGENT THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK
As we noted at the outset, entrepreneurs ultimately need a business model that scales (i.e.,
profitable growth). While we saw several approaches, successful entrepreneurs used a phased
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process that 1) began slowly by designing a simple, likely profitable core transaction and then 2)
accelerated by sequentially building a core capability and then a complete activity system. In
contrast, less effective entrepreneurs started quickly, aimed for growth, and then faded without
reaching profitability. We turn now to explain this phased, exponential-growth process.
Era 1. Measure Twice… Designing a simple and profitable core transaction
Effective entrepreneurs (StyleStar, RentRoyale, MarketMagic) first followed a process of
designing their core transaction by: 1) focusing on unit economics, 2) learning and conceptualizing
broadly about the core transaction, and 3) actively delaying growth (Table 4). By unit economics,
we mean profitability i.e., direct revenues and costs of the focal transaction, on a per unit basis.
As one entrepreneur noted, “It's really all about unit economics. The resulting core transaction
was simpler (i.e., fewer elements) and more profitable (i.e., better unit economics) than their
counterparts achieved, but was also slower to design and earned less revenue.
An illustration is StyleStar. The two founders were first-time entrepreneurs who saw an
opportunity to upend retailing. They started with a rough retail business model template: online
retail with personal styling. In existing offline services, personal stylists meet with retail customers
and for a fee offer in-store advice about what clothing to buy. Yet, these styling services are
expensive and time-consuming. So, the founders spotted an opportunity to sell clothes by
providing online yet personalized styling. The vision was to use data science to predict what
customers would buy and do so in a scalable way. A co-founder said,
So the idea was, how can you deliver a really actually - a personal experience in
apparel, and use data and technology to make that scalable and to make that better.
(StyleStar co-founder)
The initial idea was that customers would complete a survey about their size, preferred
look, and favored brands. StyleStar would predict relevant items, and mail ten of them to the
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customers who would buy what they liked, and return the rest. As StyleStar began in Q4 2010, the
founders focused their attention on the unit economics of this core transaction. A co-founder said,
The first year was just above proving this works… Are women OK with things showing up
at their door that they don’t pick out? Do the economics work? Will we make money? We
were very focused on collecting the right data and feedback. (StyleStar co-founder)
The founders began by experimenting. They designed a short style survey, and then invited
twenty friends to answer the survey and try the service. Using the responses, they bought clothes at
local boutiques and shipped a box of hand-picked items to each customer. A co-founder explained,
So the way it worked was, basically, I would have friends of friends fill out a survey, and
you would let me know what size and style, what things you liked, what brands you like, all
that kind of stuffI was buying inventory at retail from boutiques… I would then put
together a box of things that were relevant based on what they shared in their profile. And
then they would try things on. And then if they wanted to buy things, they would write me a
personal check, and I would sell it to them. (StyleStar co-founder)
StyleStar also asked customers to provide detailed feedback. The CEO said,
We were collecting, physically with pen and paper, your feedback about what you liked
and what you didn't like and what you thought of the price and how it fit. And so the data
element was always super important. (StyleStar CEO)
From this experiment, StyleStar learned a critical lesson: This seemingly crude survey was
surprisingly effective at predicting style preferences. So shopping for relevant items from an
inexpensive survey worked. This also meant that the founders could avoid costly styling
approaches like in-person consultations. A co-founder explained,
I discovered that you actually could learn a lot from somebody. I think there is just this
thesis around, do I have to be with you in person to understand your style and who you
are, or can I do that through a survey? And I felt pretty confident you could do it through a
survey. (StyleStar co-founder)
With maxed-out credit cards, the founders turned to cost cutting. One realization was that
many boutiques gave full refunds on 14-day returns. So, StyleStar shifted to a five-day return
policy to ensure full refunds for unsold clothes. The CEO said, “I was buying inventory at retail
from boutiques… And if I ultimately didn't sell something within my 14-day return window, I'd go
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and return it to the boutique. As StyleStar gathered more feedback from customers, they
recognized a common complaint: Trying on ten items was too much. As the CEO noted, “I started
out with 10 items. And the reality was people weren't going to try on 10 items. It's a lot of work.
To improve, StyleStar cut the number of items per box to five. Surprisingly, fewer items actually
increased sales. Customers were more likely to try on five items (10 was too daunting), and so
were more likely to buy. This change also simplified their boutique shopping because they could
buy fewer items per customer (also cutting inventory costs).
In Q1 2011, StyleStar secured $500,000 in seed funding which the founders used to buy
more clothes and create a basic website. Website visitors could fill out the survey and request a
box of styled items. Yet, as new online customers signed up, the founders worried about theft by
Internet “trolls”. As the CEO described, “I was worried that you could be a bot or somebody who's
going to steal money or steal my clothes.To deter trolls, StyleStar implemented a $20 up-front
“styling fee”. The fee, however, would be credited to any purchases. The CEO explained,
I felt like if you were willing to PayPal me $20 before I've even sent you anything, you are
probably a legitimate human being who wasn't going to steal my clothes. (StyleStar CEO)
As hoped, the $20 fee effectively curbed theft (reducing pilferage costs). Unexpectedly, they also
learned that people who paid $20 were more likely to buy i.e., they were better customers. Thus,
this simple change improved the unit economics both costs and revenue. An executive explained,
We ask clients to commit to a $20 styling fee when they sign up to the service.. But that fee
is applied to anything a client purchases. Initially, the purpose of the fee was to ensure the
client was a real person and not spam or a scammer. We experimented with removing it,
but we learned that it also acts as a filter, encouraging prospective clients that are a good
fit for our offering to make it through at a higher rate. (StyleStar executive)
As the service snowballed to 300 customers in late 2011, the team conceptualized broadly about
improving other elements of the unit economics. For example, the team observed that shipping
costs were substantial, and so tried a 25% discount for buying all five items in a box. The buy-all
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discount encouraged customers to make the fifth purchase and so avoided return shipping costs. It
worked both raising revenue and cutting costs per transaction. An executive explained,
Another nuance of our service is the “buy-all discount”. If a customer purchases all the
items in a shipment we extend a 25% discount across all five items. We recognized that if
the client buys all the items then we don’t have a return shipping expense and so we can
pass savings on to the client. (StyleStar executive)
Importantly, StyleStar actively delayed growth. For example, they gated their website.
New visitors had to create an online account, and then join a waitlist. The founders only admitted
customers when they had enough relevant inventory. As a co-founder described,
So you would go to StyleStar.com. And it said ‘Coming soon – Do you want to be part of
the beta?’… Then you fill out all your information, and you say you're interested. And we
actually had a waitlist for a long time because we didn't have clothes to send to you that
were relevant. (StyleStar co-founder)
By mid-2012, StyleStar had spent almost two years simplifying the core transaction and
making it more profitable. They added simplifications like reducing the items per box to five, and
confirmed the effectiveness of others like the style survey. Some features lowered costs. For
example, a survey was cheaper than in-person styling. Some features added revenue per
transaction. For example, customers willing to pay a $20 fee were more likely to buy and StyleStar
was assured $20. Some changes improved both costs and revenue (e.g., buy-all discount). In short,
StyleStar designed a relatively simple and likely profitable core transaction. As an early executive
proclaimed, “We realized that our service not only provides value and convenience to our clients,
but also generates great unit economics for us”.
Simultaneously, StyleStar delayed growth. By gating their website, the team was able to
refine the core transaction. The CEO added, “We really waited until we had the concept that we
wanted.” Yet after almost two years, they had only $500K in revenue, 16 employees, and 500
customers. StyleStar struggled to raise funds. As the CEO said, “Raising money was really hard.
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Another example is RentRoyale. Its co-founders were first-time entrepreneurs with
backgrounds in hospitality and banking. Sartorially aware, they realized that many women
(including a co-founder’s sister) often bought expensive designer clothes that they wore just once
(e.g., to a special event), to avoid repeating outfits. The founders spotted an opportunity to rent
designer clothing to these fashion-conscious customers. A co-founder said,
I realized I was having a conversation with my sister about the experience of wearing an
amazing dress… She didn't care about the actual ownership of the items in her closet.
(RentRoyale co-founder)
When RentRoyale launched in Q1 2009, the initial idea was to service rentals for fashion
designers using their existing websites. For a fraction of the price, customers could rent clothes
from their favorite designers, and then return the garments once worn. RentRoyale would manage
the operations, and share the revenue with the designers. A co-founder described,
The initial idea was what if we could rent the dresses that the designer is selling on her
website? So what if we powered rental for her? (RentRoyale co-founder)
The founders began by learning about supply. Over a couple months, they met with prominent
fashion designers and retail executives. They soon learned that designers were not interested in
renting clothes on their own websites. Rather, they worried about “cannibalizing” their revenue by
replacing would-be sales with rentals. A co-founder described a typical encounter,
When we went to chat with [prominent designer], she was not too thrilled about the idea of
renting clothes in general, and thought that it would cannibalize her retail sales… She was
ready to end the meeting with us after a few minutes. (RentRoyale co-founder)
So, the founders concluded that their initial idea would not work. Instead, they would have to buy
and manage inventory, and offer the rentals on their own website. A co-founder said,
It became clear we’d have to buy dresses directly from designers and develop our own
rental site. Designers would not be willing to bear the costs and risks of building a rental
business themselves. (RentRoyale co-founder)
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The founders also learned that designers could be enticed to supply garments at wholesale
prices if the venture attracted younger customers (i.e., late teens to thirties). Such customers could
be introduced to the designers’ clothing, and might later become buying customers. In turn,
wholesale prices were essential for RentRoyale’s unit economics. A co-founder explained,
We knew that if we didn’t have wholesale relationships with designers, and if designers
were not benefiting from this customer acquisition channel that we’re building with
RentalRoyale, that the business was not going to succeed. (RentalRoyale co-founder)
Early on, the founders also learned about demand including its implications for unit
economics. Particularly uncertain was whether young customers would look after expensive rental
dresses. A co-founder asked, “Once [young women] rent dresses will they destroy them? How
many times can you rent them?” Over six months (Q2-3 2009), the founders conducted three
experiments. In the first, the founders hosted a pop-up at a college campus to learn whether
women would rent dresses, at what price, and whether they would return the items by mail with no
damage. They bought 100 dresses with varied styles and rental prices. A co-founder elaborated,
The idea behind this was to learn - A, will women rent dresses? - B, what do they rent?
How much will they pay? What brands do they want? And most importantly, if they do
rent, what happens to these garments after they rent? (RentalRoyale co-founder)
They learned several lessons. First, over 30% of attendees rented an item, confirming that
women will rent. As a co-founder said, “We saw that women will in fact rent dresses. Second,
customers were willing to rent at about 10% of retail. Third, the founders were surprised and
pleased that 96% of the dresses were returned on time and in perfect condition. A co-founder said,
I figured out from this experiment that people actually really take care of things when they have
an appreciation for the aspiration of that brand.
Later in Q3 2009, RentRoyale raised $1.75M of seed funding to acquire more inventory,
hire five employees, and build a basic website. The CEO described,
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We had to raise money because we needed to invest hundreds of thousands of dollars in
inventory to even launch a business, or to assess whether it was a viable idea…. We could
hire some people. We could launch a website. (RentRoyale CEO)
Now with the more rentals, RentRoyale put the spotlight on logistics. Conceptualizing
broadly about the unit economics, the team realized, for example, that storing garments at a dry
cleaner saves transport costs to/from storage. So they added a dry cleaning partner. The CEO said,
We partnered with a dry cleaner We decided to store all of our items inside the dry
cleaner because we ultimately knew that’s where we’d have to ship them back to at the end
of the cycle anyway. (RentRoyale CEO)
Like StyleStar, RentRoyale actively delayed growth such as by requiring new customers to
create an online account and then join a waitlist. In addition to providing time to hone the core
transaction, too little inventory would be discouraging for customers. A co-founder said, We do
have a wait list to join the site… We don’t want customers browsing the site and seeing that
there’s hardly anything left.
By mid-2010, RentRoyale had spent about two years refining their core transaction. They
adopted a simple pricing rule (10% of retail), and kept marketing simple and cheap by relying
on word-of-mouth. They simplified operations with a dry cleaning partner. Some actions cut costs
(e.g., storage at the dry cleaner, buying at wholesale prices). Some also increased revenue. For
example, storage at the dry cleaner cut transit time, making more dresses available for rent. In
short, RentRoyale designed a simple and potentially profitable core transaction.
At the same time, RentRoyale delayed growth by gating their website. As a cofounder
explained, “Our whole approach is to test things out, see what works”. Yet, they had only $1M in
revenue, 8 employees, and about 1,000 items in inventory. An industry observer critiqued their
stunted growth, RentRoyale has only 1,000 dresses in its warehouse, and 750 of them were out on
rental on New Year’s Eve.
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In contrast, the paired entrepreneurs (StyleStuck, RentWreck, MarketMiss) aimed for
growth, and neglected simplifying the core transaction and improving its profitability. Instead,
they quickly settled on a core transaction and grew. Yet, they ended up with a more complicated
(i.e., more elements) core transaction with weaker unit economics (i.e., profitability).
StyleStuck illustrates. Its two founders (one a successful retail entrepreneur) saw a retail
opportunity with online styling similar to StarStyle. The initial idea was for remote stylists to
conduct video consults with customers. The stylists would then buy relevant clothes and mail them
to the customers who would buy what they liked, and return the rest. A co-founder said,
Well, the initial idea for StyleStuck was we're going to get on Skype with customers, and
we're going to look at them, and we're going to have a pretty lengthy interview with that
person to understand how they like to dress. And then we would send items of clothing and
let them keep the clothes for like a month or longer. (StyleStuck co-founder)
As the founders began Q1 2010, they focused on recruiting stylists, finding customers, and
selling. They eschewed thinking through or broadly about the core transaction or experimenting.
Instead, they jumped in with trial-and-error learning about sales. As a cofounder noted,
It was largely, "Let's just start selling clothes and see how it goes." It was not, "Let's get in
a room and whiteboard and do focus groups" and all that. It was, "Why don't we send as
many boxes out with clothes in them, and listen to our customers?" (StyleStuck co-
founder)
Consistent with hands-on learning, the team (2 co-founders plus CFO) spent their first several
months meeting with customers, styling outfits, and selling. As the CEO described,
The first six months were really tough every single member of the team took on a sales
goal… My CFO and [co-founder] are not sales people. They’re highly analytical. They’re
super talented. They forced themselves to go out and sell to develop empathy and
compassion for the sales team we’ve ultimately hired. (StyleStuck CEO)
The team learned several sales lessons. For example, it is effective to use the phone and
email (not Skype), and put ten items (not more) in a box. They also focused on the personal
relationship between the stylist and customer. A co-founder described,
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The big thing we were trying to do was establish a personal relationship… just the way you
might have a personal trainer for working out or you might have a travel agent for booking
trips. (StyleStuck co-founder)
The team quickly came to see excellent stylists as essential. An early employee noted,
What made StyleStuck successful for the customer was the experience and you have to have
a human in it… That human experience is what makes it fun, happy, forcing you to try on
and giving you feedback. (StyleStuck early employee)
They also realized that their stylists needed to be in-house (not remote and commission-
only) in order to build the right corporate culture and customer value. As a co-founder explained,
Folks working around the country doesn't really make sense because they're not really bought
into the kind of company and culture we want to build.
With online ads, direct mail, and viral marketing, StyleStuck rapidly added customers and
sales. In less than a year, StyleStuck’s revenue was growing ($70,000 in 5 months). The CEO saw
this as confirmation that This is actually going to work”. He expanded,
I just said, “Well, we’ve got to start selling clothes, so I’m going to start doing it myself. I
sold $10,000 in our fourth month, our company sold a total of $39,000. And in our next
month, I sold $35,000 of clothes myself, and the company sold just over $70,000 And in
our fifth month, I was like, ‘This is actually going to work!’” (CEO StyleStuck)
The team hired a sales manager and replaced remote stylists with on-site ones. In Q1 2011, they
invited customers to their office where they had added a “shopping bar” for in-person styling. This
attracted better customers (i.e., more likely to buy) and fueled more sales. A co-founder explained,
Why not have people come into our headquarters?… Ultimately that went to our in-person
store experience. In-person became really important for relationship building. Those
customers were always better customers. (StyleStuck co-founder)
The team knew that an in-person sales channel added complexity and real-estate costs, but
prioritized product-market fit and growth. So, unlike StyleStar, they looked narrowly at revenue
and ignored costs like shipping and expensive styling without a survey. The CEO noted,
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We didn't know if we could ever get our cost of goods low enough and commission costs
low enough, in-person sales and real estate costs low enough to make it all work. But we
knew we could convince a lot of guys that this was a better way to shop. (StyleStuclk CEO)
Later in Q1 2011, StyleStuck had spent about a year emphasizing growth. They were off to a quick
start with $5.5M in revenue, about 60 employees, and over 3,000 customers. Yet, StyleStuck’s
core transaction had costly unit economics.
RentWreck also quickly locked into a complicated core transaction that combined reverse
logistics (like RentRoyale) with prediction and subscription pricing. The team emphasized brand
and rapid growth using online ads and social influencers to gain customers. Unlike RentRoyale,
they mostly ignored unit economics by neglecting costs (e.g., bought at retail, not wholesale).
Likewise, MarketMiss quickly settled on a complicated core transaction that combined a
marketplace with prediction and inventory. They focused on growth while their counterpart
(MarketMagic) simplified and cut costs with a marketplace-only business model.
Summary. All six ventures established a core transaction, a signal that they were poised
for Series A which (as noted in Methods) denotes that the venture is a business that is ready to
scale. Effective ventures (StyleStar, RentRoyal, and MarketMagic) spent almost two years to get
to this milestone. They focused on designing a simple and profitable core transaction by
conceptualizing broadly and learning about more elements and by actively slowing growth. In
contrast, others (StyleStuck, RentWreck, and MarketMiss) aimed for growth. They sprinted ahead
to Series A in less time, and grew faster in revenue, customers, and employees. Yet, they ended up
with a more complex and likely less profitable core transaction (Table 4).
Era 2. Cut once… Accelerating by building a complete activity system
In Era 2, the entrepreneurs fleshed out the core transaction from Era 1 by building activities. By
activities, we mean repeatable organizational processes (Ott and Eisenhardt, 2020; Porter and
Siggelkow, 2008). Underlying activities are often valuable skills (e.g. data science, sales) and
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assets (e.g. warehouse, brand, algorithms). Effective entrepreneurs (StyleStar, RentRoyal,
MarketMagic) followed a process of: 1) focusing on profit and growth (i.e., scaling), 2) building a
core capability that was central to their business model, 3) adding superior data science skills, and
4) completing the activity system (Table 5).
RentRoyale illustrates. In Era 1, the founders designed a simple and likely profitable core
transaction for a rental business model: buy clothes from fashion designers at wholesale, and rent
at 10% of retail. After Series A (Q2 2010), they turned their attention to scaling i.e. profit and
growth. As an executive noted, “If you scale properly, it's sustainable growth… You have good
economics”. To do so, the team tried to outsource operations like supply chain logistics and dry
cleaning. As the CEO said, “I tried really hard initially to outsource”. Yet, the team came to
believe that reverse logistics i.e., activities to receive a garment, clean, and turn it around for
rental was actually a core capability that was key to scaling the business. As the CEO explained,
When I launched RentRoyale, I thought I was launching a marketing company, or a
brand…I realized, no, the experience of rental, is actually - most importantly, the logistics.
If the logistics aren't perfect behind the order, I'm not able to sell you anything. There's no
product. So I realized early on that we couldn't outsource technology or operations, and
that we would have to build everything from scratch. (RentRoyale CEO)
The team also now saw reverse logistics as an inimitable advantage. A co-founder noted,
We have 100% reverse logistics, which means that 100% of our items are returned… We
decided to build it ourselves, which is also a great competitive advantage - It's harder for
any competitor to do what we’re doing or to ramp up in a short period of time.
(RentalRoyale co-founder)
As a first step in mid-2010, the team replaced their dry cleaning partner. While friendly
and helpful, this small dry cleaner was costly and unreliable. As a manager noted, “Outsourcing
was extremely expensive, unreliable.An executive elaborated, “We could not control the timing
after drop off or the quality…. And we were missing weekends - obviously where the demand
was. Instead, the team hired a dry cleaning star from a high-end chain. As one executive noted,
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We were very fortunate to find someone who had experience….But at the same time, he was not
family - like “mom and pop” dry cleaning”. Another executive elaborated,
He was running a dry cleaning chain actually in Philadelphia. And then he also was
involved with a high-end dry cleaning operation in New York…. And we said we’d love for
you to come and set this up. So that set up a journey where we figured out what we knew,
what we need…what kind of machines and find a location. (RentalRoyale executive)
RentRoyale also hired spotters (e.g., identify and remove stains) who were surprisingly hard to
find. An executive called them the “holy grail”. The CEO echoed, “The hardest position to recruit
has not been engineers, it’s been spotters! The team also purchased cleaning equipment and set
up a facility. An early employee noted the significance of beginning with cleaning, summarizing,
The biggest lift obviously is going to be cleaning.”
RentRoyale also hired a leading data scientist PhD from a firm using cutting-edge data
science. This Chief Algorithms Officer began to intertwine physical operations with optimization
and AI algorithms to improve the reverse logistics activities. An executive described,
There were two journeys….a journey of building out the physical operations and then there
was this journey of the software and those two are intertwined…The whole thesis was that
we don't want people to be making a lot of choices that are slowing down the process. So,
we wanted the system to get smarter and smarter. (RentRoyale executive)
In 2011, RentRoyale built a new, expansive warehouse near a transport hub. As the CEO
noted, “We, out of this warehouse, run the largest dry cleaner in the world. The team also added
mini-distribution centers around the US as hubs to provide cheaper and faster shipping, and better
availability of clothes. The CEO described their value, “An operational hub is incredibly
important to solve problems. It also allows us to have a last minute business in those cities.
In sum, RentRoyale spent about two years building reverse logistics as a core capability
that combined efficient physical operations with ever-smarter algorithms. This created faster
turnaround of garments, and so increased revenue (i.e., more items available for rent) for the same
inventory. Similarly, better cleaning increased the # of wears per garment (i.e., revenue per item)
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that was critical for profitability. In short, better reverse logistics activities led to more inventory
turns, more quickly, and so fueled more profitable growth. The CEO described,
We make money by turning this dress multiple times. If I don't know what chemicals I
should use to clean this dress and how I should repair it and how I should store it in order
to make sure that it looks brand new over a very long period of time The warehouse is
not effective. It’s not helping the company financially. (RentRoyale CEO)
In mid-2012, RentRoyale switched to merchandising activities i.e., buying and pricing
rental clothes. In Era 1, they cobbled together crude ones like ad hoc purchases and simple pricing
(10% of retail). While these basics worked, they were insufficient for RentRoyale to scale. So, the
founders added a data science team to work with the merchandising group to develop new metrics
(e.g., garment lifetime) and better predict what inventory to buy. As a co-founder noted,
We have an analytics team here that is very helpful in determining our initial purchases of
what we should buy in terms of designers, fabrics, long vs. short, what style of dresses we
should be purchasing in the first place. (RentRoyale co-founder)
RentRoyale also shared these valuable, yet rare data with their designers. As one designer
enthused, “You learn a lot from that and from reading the comments the clients make online. It’s
great market research! These data became a valuable, rare resource that deepened ties with
designers and lowered inventory costs via better deals with designers. The CEO noted,
Data is a precious asset…Fashion designers are bereft from receiving data from any of
their partners. It becomes a competitive asset for us…helping to inform them on what these
five million young women are doing related to their brands. (RentalRoyale CEO)
The data science team also tackled pricing. The simple heuristic (10% of retail) worked
early on, but impaired profitable growth by underpricing some garments and overpricing others.
The data scientists made a significant move by drawing on an analogy to the dynamic pricing AI
algorithms of airlines that become smarter with more transactions. An executive explained,
It's not that dissimilar from when you look at pricing of an airline ticket... We had a
general heuristic. And then it became more of a smarter system that we were optimizing a
lot more complex variables rather than just a heuristic. (RentRoyale executive)
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As more customers could find a garment at the right price, growth surged. An executive extolled,
This sophisticated pricing engine… altered the trajectory of user growth”. Simultaneously, the
algorithms became smarter and their unit costs decreased (for this scale-free resource).
In sum, RentRoyale built a core capability (i.e., reverse logistics) as well as merchandising
and other capabilities. Underlying these activity bundles were valuable, often rare and inimitable
skills (e.g., cleaning, data science) and assets (e.g., warehouse, rental data). They distinguished this
activity system for scaling (i.e., profitable growth) from short-term actions to boost growth
temporarily (i.e., “growth hacks”) like paid marketing. An executive explained,
When you think about profitability and growth, there's a difference between back-end and
front-end…On the consumer end, if the entire growth is driven by paid marketing then that
actually doesn’t scaleSo, you have to think about what are you really building?
(RentRoyale executive)
Another executive echoed the value of RentRoyal’s activity system,
The magic of what we had built was the back end… We knew how to buy inventory. We
knew how to think about customers. We knew how to match demand and supply. We knew
how to rent it, clean it, process it. We knew how to work with all of these shipping vendors.
We knew all of this stuff. (RentRoyale executive)
In 2016, RentRoyale became profitable with over $100M in revenue and a complete activity
system around a core capability: reverse logistics. The CEO summarized, “RentRoyale is a
proprietary reverse logistics platform. It's an operations company.
StyleStar also illustrates. In Era 1, the team established a simple and likely profitable core
transaction for a retail business model: Customers complete a style survey and pay $20. In-house
stylists use the survey to select and send five relevant clothing items that customers could buy or
return. Yet, StyleStar struggled to raise funds. The CEO noted growth concerns, “Probably the
number one question we get from VCs is, Why aren’t you growing faster?A skeptical VC added,
Starting a department store is expensive and logistically complicated. They’re under-
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appreciating how good you have to be at sales.” The CEO lamented, “Venture investors want to
buy software engineers or they want to buy apps. They don’t want to buy clothes.”
After its series A, StyleStar shifted to profit and growth. An executive noted,
While certainly we characterize ourselves as a growth company, we also agreed that one
of our principles for our managing the business was that profitability was a very clear
goal. So, we were always… carefully walking the line between growth and profitability.
(StyleStar executive)
Like RentRoyale, StyleStar first turned to building a core capability. The team saw using
data for prediction as its core capability and lured a world-class data scientist from a premier firm
using cutting-edge data science to join in mid-2012. The CEO noted,
From day zero, we were always a data company. Like those return surveys that I described
- like even when we were physically shipping the boxes out of our office and we didn't even
have a website, we were collecting the data about the product, the attributes of the
product. And we were collecting, physically with pen and paper, your feedback about what
you liked and what you didn't like and what you thought of the price and how it fit. And so
the data element was always super important.
The CEO elaborated, I don't think we were employing true data science, I would say, until Jon
joined us in 2012.
Jon began with prediction for styling. In the Era 1 manual process, stylists would read the
customer survey, and then trawl through the inventory using heuristics to find five items that the
stylist thought the customer would buy a slow and inaccurate process. As he explained,
The first algorithmic problem we worked on was the recommendation engine. Given our
business model it was clear that we had to be really good at recommending relevant
clothes to our clients. Rather than merely recommending items via images rendered on a
website or through a mobile app, we ship the items we are recommending directly to the
client so that they can try them on. Since physical delivery is much more expensive than
digital delivery our recommendations need to be extremely relevant. We knew that this
would require both machine learning algorithms as well as expert human judgment
stylists. Each adds its own value and their combination would be needed to boost the
relevance of the recommendations to a level that justifies the cost of physical delivery.
(StyleStar data science executive)
A key insight was blending human stylists with recommendation algorithms to create a better
prediction: The algorithm simplified prediction choices, and made stylists more accurate (i.e.,
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increasing sales) and efficient (i.e., less time to style each customer), thus cutting costs. In turn,
stylists’ advantages like relationships and curation remained. An executive described the synergy,
The human stylist provides the benefit of curation and is far more capable of fostering a
relationship with the customer… Algorithms and human judgment each play a role… They
are complementary to one another. In fact, they’re reinforcing. (StyleStar executive)
Another noted additional scaling benefits of algorithms,
Stylists have excellent judgment, but what they do not do well is sift through mountains of
data. And they don't have to. The algorithm does that for them. The algorithm scales these
human stylists by narrowing the results down to them. (StyleStar executive)
StyleStar built a recommendation algorithm for styling in shortly under a year. The CEO said, “It
actually took us 8-12 months to refine the model to be able to be consistently styling well.
StyleStar then accelerated stylist hiring, from 40 to about 200 stylists in five months (mid-2013).
A key point is that, like RentRoyale, StyleStar used analogies from outside the industry to
trigger algorithmic insights. For example, StyeStar populated purchase suggestions for stylists like
Amazon’s prediction algorithms, and framed a possible purchase as a 0-1 probability like Netflix’s
recommendation engine. A data scientist described,
You're on Amazon's site, you're getting targeted by a product that we think is
relevant….But then similar to Netflix, it'll also show a likelihood that a customer will
purchase each product. So let's say it's gonna show like a pair of jeans, it's gonna say,
"This customer has a 60% chance of purchasing these jeans." "This person has a 30%
chance of purchasing this dress." (StyleStar data scientist)
Another key point is that, also like RentRoyale, StyleStar hired superior talent and placed
them at high levels. For example, the Chief Algorithm Officer reported to the CEO at both firms.
This talent attracted more talent. An executive described, “Jeff [second data science hire] was a
PhD in statistics from MIT, so very credible and knew his stuff… And then he helped with
recruiting the next-level team that would take things higher.
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StyleStar next focused on building merchandising activities e.g., what inventory to buy.
The team’s activities from Era 1 were rough and scrappy: buyers attended tradeshows and made ad
hoc purchases with their own credit cards. An executive said,
It was very scrappy. We had a buying team and they'd go out to these markets they'd go to
where all the vendors put out their stuff… and make some decisions about what to buy. And
it was done very scrappily on credit cards. (StyleStar executive)
To upgrade merchandising activities (Q3 2013), StyleStar again formed a data science
team as they had for styling. The team coded algorithms to help merchandise buyers to predict
which clothing inventory to buy. An executive said,
So we started to invest energy in how do we improve the set of inventory from which to
pick. And that became what we call merchandising algorithms to go and figure out what
to buy, and hold in inventory, what to re-buy… We started building a team around that.
(StyleStar executive)
At the same time, StyleStar hired a highly experienced executive from a top consumer firm
to lead the “human” merchandising group. Again, StyleStar hired top talent, and blended
algorithms with people. People could better anticipate unexpected trends (e.g., next season’s
colors, popularity of jeans) and negotiate favorable supplier deals while algorithms make aspects
of merchandising predictions simpler (e.g., reducing the choices that buyers consider) and smarter.
A key point is StyleStar’s valuable, rare customer data. Since StyleStar understood
customer preferences (including waitlist customers) from their style surveys, StyleStar had data
that created an advantage in prediction of both styling and merchandising. An executive noted,
We had so much data that no other retailer has… We have the ability to use that
information to inform what we would rebuy for the next timeframe… It was a bottoms up
process that was informed by the data that came from our clients. That is 180 degrees
different from traditional retail which is top down. (StyleStar executive)
Thus, StyleStar synergistically blended humans and algorithms, and created valuable, often
rare resources (e.g., customer data, algorithms) that improved as the venture grew. StyleStar
continued its activity system such as adding warehouses (mid-2013-2014). In late 2014, StyleStar
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linked some algorithms to provide holistic insights across strategic domains. An executive
summarized, “Not being just myopic dealing with the decision in front of you, but looking across
the set of clients… What we do now is probabilistically push things around so it's the best outcome
for all. In 2015, StyleStar became profitable with over $300M in revenue, 2,000 employees and a
complete activity system anchored by a core capability: prediction. An executive summarized,
All these things kind of organically came about…..Now it's this huge collection of
algorithmic capabilities that are in some ways operating as a system in itself now.
(StyleStar executive)
In contrast to the effective entrepreneurs (StyleStar, RentRoyale, MarketMagic),
StyleStuck, RentWreck, and MarketMiss continued to focus only on growth, and made various
mistakes. StyleStuck built a core capability (sales), but tightly integrated activities with
unprofitable unit economics around a small customer segment. RentWreck had a complex and
unprofitable core transaction, built unnecessary capabilities, and prioritized marketing like short-
term growth hacks”. MarketMiss also had a complex and unprofitable core transaction, built few
(if any) capabilities, and kept trying different customers to find growth. While these ventures grew
quickly at first (Era 1), they faded and were never profitable (Era 2).
StyleStuck illustrates. Like StyleStar, StyleStuck adopted a retail business model template
with online styling. The core transaction: Stylists engage customers on the phone, email, or in-
person to assess preferences. They then predict ten relevant items and send them to customers who
could buy or return. StyleStuck catered to a specific customer. As a founder noted,
Our customers are like 45-year-old investment bankers, living in the suburbs of Omaha,
you know who have three kids and no time and plenty of income and just want to look good
and look professional. (StyleStuck co-founder)
The team focused on revenue, found product-market fit, and were off to a quick start in Era 1. Yet,
compared to StyleStar, StyleStuck’s transaction was complex (e.g., more sales channels, more
items) and probably less profitable (e.g., costly styling and real estate).
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Following Series A (Q2 2011), StyleStuck continued to focus on growing revenue. Social
media advertising was very effective for identifying the wealthy middle-aged men who were the
target customer. A co-founder said,
So how do we scale it?... Facebook! Where instead of people having to search, we could
advertise to people by gender, by occupation, by zip code. (StyleStuck co-founder)
To support adding customers, StyleStuck hired stylists whom they saw as critical to
growth. They preferred seasoned salespeople who had sold products like software, and prized
those who could bring their own clients. The CEO said, “Really good sales team members…they
don't take leads anymore. They just bring in their own guys because they've got such a nice book
of business. Another executive echoed that their styling hires were charismatic salespeople,
We found people who had previously been in enterprise sales roles, selling software or
insurance or yellow pages ads or whatever. People who were selling stuff… Our sales
team was absolutely critical. They will be charismatic, helpful people who, you know,
we're solving problems that people didn't know they had. (StyleStuck executive)
By the end of 2011, StyleStuck had grown to 60 employees, most of whom were stylists.
In early 2012, StyleStuck started improving other activities that fit their target customer.
They deepened relationships with boutique suppliers by offering more volume than single stores
yet better prices than large department stores. StyleStuck also gave these boutique suppliers a
valuable, rare channel for reaching very desirable customers who, in turn, appreciated the more
unique boutique clothing. The CEO noted,
Boutique suppliers have seen us grow really rapidly and they've begun to see that we
introduce their brands to a very hard to find yet very sought-after consumer, which is an
affluent urban guy who has a lot of money and not a lot of time and wants to learn more
about fashion, but doesn't really know how to do that. (StyleStuck CEO)
The team was convinced that choosing the high-end customer was wise. As a co-founder said,
So, we're really targeting the high end of the market, where all of the profit is in the retail
industry. Not dissimilar from many industries. The airlines or financial services industries.
All of the profit is in that top. Top spenders, affluent customers, not the kind of super hip
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and cool unemployed people you see cruising around Brooklyn and Manhattan.
(StyleStuck co-founder)
Another executive echoed their high-end strategy with an analogy to Starbucks,
We're Starbucksing the men's apparel market, which in my mind is a way of saying, "30
years ago, my dad didn't use to drink $5 lattes. Today, he does all the time." A lot of guys
used to spend $500 a year on clothes and be really unsatisfied with their wardrobe. And
now with StyleStuck, they're spending $2,000 to $5,000 a year on clothes. And they love it.
(StyleStuck CEO)
In 2013, StyleStuck began building software to support their core capability: sales. Yet,
unlike StyleStar, StyleStuck did not use data science. The CEO admitted, “I don’t know much
about algorithms. It was the skunkworks to me.” Instead, StyleStuck used well-known software
(e.g., Salesforce CRM) and in-house tools to support sales activities. The COO said,
One of the core capabilities that we have… is managing these relationships that we have
with our customer… CRM is important to us. Salesforce has been a phenomenal partner…
We also have built a lot of tools on behalf of our stylists, we have mobile applications that
help our stylists manage their profiles with customers. (StyleStuck COO)
StyleStuck’s use of familiar software tools to improve styling contrasts with StyleStar’s data
science algorithms to enhance styling predictions. StyleStuck compensated for weak data science
with a narrow, easy-to-predict customer with traditional tastes. An executive elaborated,
We focus on things that were not the crazy stuff you would see on billboards. But stuff that
season in and season out would be a real staple… For a pretty conservative audience, not
a super fashion-forward audience. Trends don't change as quickly. (StyleStuck executive)
Yet with weak prediction capability, StarStruck struggled to add customers beyond its initial set.
The CEO reflected on StyleStar’s superior data science and its implications for scaling,
We didn’t do a lot of data science. StyleStar did so much more data science… StyleStar
had about 40 data scientists and we had 4. They’ve scaled really well. (StyleStuck CEO)
In sum, StyleStuck developed a modestly valuable core capability (sales) and activity
system: effective but expensive sales channels (e.g., online stylists, in-person shopping bars),
costly professional sales-stylists, and familiar sales software (e.g., Salesforce CRM). They added
31
activities like boutique supplier relationships to an integrated activity system that provided
product-market fit for a small market. A co-founder contrasted StyleStar and StyleStuck,
StyleStar went after a much bigger market, and I think they did a really, really good job of
capturing it. And I don't think they were as obsessed about the personal relationship
between you and your stylist. (StyleStuck co-founder)
In 2014, StyleStuck had $100M in revenue, but growth was flattening. The venture was
acquired by a large, “brick-and-mortar” retailer that wrote down the investment about a year later.
StyleStuck never became profitable. Instead, they were closed. An executive lamented, “We didn't
figure out how to take down the bigger opportunities, the StyleStar opportunity.
Another example is RentWreck. Like RentRoyale, RentWreck’s two founders adopted a
rental business model template. Yet, they complicated the core transaction: Customers complete a
style survey and pay a monthly subscription (~$50). RentWreck would predict 5 items that the
customer might like and mail them to the customer who could return items any time with free
shipping, and get different rental items. This complex, unprofitable transaction combined reverse
logistics (RentRoyale) with predictive styling (StyleStar) and subscriptions.
As RentWreck began Era 2 with Series A funding (Q3 2013), they continued to focus on
growth. An executive said, The goal was just growth. All we were focused on was growth.”
Consistent with growth, they emphasized marketing with familiar actions like engaging social
media influencers and Facebook ads. A VC described, “They were doing grassroots marketing
nothing that I would say is total rocket science”. They also invested in brand which they saw as a
valuable asset: a strong brand makes adding customers easier. An executive said,
Another thing that just drives scale for any direct-to-consumer business is brand…So the
bigger your brand is, the more known it is, you get that halo effect where marketing gets a
lot easier. (RentWreck executive)
Simultaneously, RentWreck improved styling activities. They hired several data scientists.
Yet unlike StyleStar, they did not hire top talent or blend algorithms with humans. Instead, since
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their data scientists built an algorithm that served 80% of customers without humans, the team
fired most of the stylists. Yet, while the algorithm modestly improved styling (e.g., faster), the
team had assumed (but not tested) whether renters wanted styling. Yet after building the algorithm,
the team realized that renters actually prefer to pick their own clothes. As a co-founder noted, “If
we really wanted to be a long-term part of someone's life, we had to give them more control.
After wasting 9 months of time and investment, the team eliminated styling.
In mid-2014, RentWreck began upgrading their reverse logistics like warehousing and
cleaning. Yet unlike RentRoyale that hired top talent (e.g., dry cleaning experts, top data
scientists) and spent two years honing reverse logistics, RentWreck lost focus in under a year.
With incomplete activities (e.g., one warehouse), they switched back to marketing. For example,
they formed partnerships to rent celebrities clothing lines. An investor said, “They figured out
something [for reverse logistics] that kind of worked. Then, it was really about growth, growth,
growth, growth, growth! Yet, they lost money on each new customer. A VC lamented,
They could never get to unit economics that made sense… When you added up all of the
costs, including the customer acquisition and then including the shipment costs, the
business wasn't really a repeatable business. (RentWreck board member)
In sum, RentWreck built a modestly valuable brand, but neither a complete activity system
nor a simple, profitable core transaction. A co-founder regretted, “Just try to do fewer things
better”. In 2017, RentWreck had $75M in revenue, but was far from profitable. The founders
were replaced. As a board member said, “The founders were in over their heads.” RentWreck
merged with an offline retailer, was never profitable, and the merged firm ultimately failed. An
investor summarized, noting the incomplete activity system,
I just think RentWreck completely underestimated the complexity and the cost…. If they
had $10… they weren't willing to take five of those dollars and go invest in infrastructure
because they wanted to show the top-line growth. (RentWreck investor)
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Summary. How did the effective entrepreneurs so clearly pass their counterparts? One
reason is their simple core transaction from Era 1. It is easier to build a complete activity system
on a simple transaction. Complexity often adds costs and more ways to fail. Second, they anchored
their activity systems on a core capability that was valuable, rare, and difficult to imitate. This core
capability was central to the business model, and was a source of competitive advantage. Third,
they emphasized data science (e.g., hiring top data scientists, placing them in c-suite roles, and
synergistically blending algorithms and humans) to improve revenue and/or cut costs. A key point
is that AI algorithms support scaling i.e., become more profitable with growth because they
become more accurate (i.e., learn) and are scale-free (i.e., per unit cost declines).
In contrast, less effective entrepreneurs focused on growth and often pursuing product-
market fit and/or growth hacks. While some (StyleStuck, RentWreck) built core capabilities, these
capabilities offered modest value and little competitive advantage. Strikingly, these entrepreneurs
failed to recognize the advantages of data science, a particularly stark difference between
StyleStuck v. StyleStar, and relevant core capabilities like RentRoyale v. RentWreck (Table 5).
A turnaround case: MarketMagic
An insightful venture is MarketMagic that began well in Era 1, faltered in Era 2, and then
recovered. These 4 experienced entrepreneurs adopted a marketplace business model to connect
second-hand clothing sellers to online buyers. Like the other successful ventures (StyleStar,
RentRoyale), MarketMagic slowly designed a simple and likely profitable core transaction. As the
CEO said, “I love the power of simplicity - how simplifying and progressively simplifying leads to
scale! Drawing on an analogy to StubHub, MarketMagic charged sellers a simple 20% fee for
any sale on the platform. They also simplified shipping by enabling sellers to mail items directly to
buyers at a flat fee. Finally, the team delayed growth through their invite-only approach.
34
After MarketMagic raised Series A funding (Q4 2012), they began by building a core
capability: community engagement. The team believed that a highly engaged community was
central to its marketplace business model. A co-founder said, Ultimately having the largest seller
community allows you to have the largest buyer community, which allows you to have the largest
platform over time.
The team hypothesized that hosting offline events could engage existing customers and
entice new ones. As an experiment, the team hosted a small event in Las Vegas, and invited
several potential customers and local fashion bloggers. While only 15 people attended the event, it
unexpectedly generated significant media coverage. The CEO said,
So we threw our first physical party in Vegas, and they were all of about 15 people. But it
was a smash hit. We were able to do some local PR. We got some coverage with ABC. We
got like 1,000, 2,000 new customers. (MarketMagic CEO)
With the surprising effectiveness of this event, MarketMagic assembled a dedicated team
that regularly hosted events both offline and online. Engaging the community improved both
growth (more users) and profitability (more and larger transactions per user).
Yet, before improving other activities (e.g., shipping, website, sales tax collection),
MarketMagic declared the activity system as complete, and turned to growth hacks”. The CEO
declared, “We’re just focused on growing now because the basics are solved. And now it’s just
growing. July was an exponential month! MarketMagic spent the next year pursuing growth.
They engaged in online ads, PR campaigns, and marketing promotions. As social media became
very effective for mobile marketing, growth exploded. As the CEO summarized,
About the first few hundred thousand users, it was however you could hack it. So we
used different advertising platforms, physical parties, PR, advertising, different things.
Then Facebook just made it so easy with mobile installs, so 2013 was all Facebook!
(MarketMagic CEO)
MarketMagic added 3 million users in less than a year. An executive noted, “It was real 10X!
35
Yet, while MarketMagic had a valuable core capability in community engagement, they
lacked a complete activity system (e.g., robust platform, secure payments, reliable shipping). As
profitability tanked, the CEO noted, “The unit economics were deteriorating… The engagement of
the users was really high, but just the whole system was not yet there. The platform began failing
with too many parties in late 2013. While these parties engaged the community, their high activity
caused frequent crashes. The CEO lamented, I’m fighting the infrastructure. And parties - the
concurrency levels are insanely high… It's real time buying and selling… And so the system is
under incredible stress.” Another noted, “Payments was breaking”. A third echoed, “The
infrastructure pieces… We should have really invested much sooner.
At the end of 2013, MarketMagic reversed course and slashed marketing. The CEO said,
It was not going to work… It was not the right thing to do for our community either
because we were not servicing them correctly. So we cut down our marketing spend by
90%. (MarketMagic CEO)
MarketMagic spent 2014 completing the activity system: Re-architecting the platform, signing up
payment providers, and forming a postage partnership. In 2015, these activities unexpectedly
triggered dramatic growth by making the marketplace better (e.g. more frictionless), not by
“growth hacking”. A VC explained,
This idea of fundamental growth instead of growth hacking. You look at something like
reducing the friction on the shipping, right? The amount of growth that this released… It
was dramatic. No one would ever have thought of that as a growth hack. But reducing that
friction and making it so easy, made a huge impact. (MarketMagic investor)
In sum, MarketMagic’s activity system coalesced around a core capability: community
engagement. As the CEO said, “MarketMagic is very much powered around the community”. In
2016, MarketMagic became profitable with $80M in revenue, over 20M community members, and
almost $1B in transactions. A VC proclaimed, “It was incredible. I haven't seen a marketplace
platform like that ever.
36
Like MarketMagic, MarketMiss began with a marketplace business model to connect
second-hand clothing sellers to buyers. Yet, MarketMiss focused on growth in Era 1, and designed
a complex core transaction: A seller receives a box with pre-paid postage to fill with unwanted
clothes and provides details like sizes and styles. Once MarketMiss finds a matching buyer, the
seller mails the box to the buyer who pays a $13 fee and supplies a new box. So it blended
community engagement (MarketMagic), logistics (RentRoyale) and prediction matching
(StyleStar). It was complex like multiple revenue models, multiple steps for buyers and sellers,
and many different items per box. Nonetheless, MarketMiss initially grew quickly.
Following Series A (Q2 2010) less than a year after launch, MarketMiss continued to focus
on growth by adding products like toys (Q4 2010) and books (Q2 2011), and partnering with
charities (Q3 2010). They added a daily blog (Q1 2011) that the CEO justified, We think about
high-quality content in the same way that we think about customer acquisition in other channels”.
They tried a summer book swap (Q3 2011) and Halloween swap (Q4 2011).
Yet, MarketMiss did not improve its activities. For example, instead of using data science
like StyleStar, MarketMiss did manual matching. This left many buyers dissatisfied with sellers
and users “firing” each other. As an executive described, We found out that, if a customer had a
different quality standard, then we were essentially having customers firing other customers.
Similarly, while MarketMagic made listing items easy (i.e., post a smartphone photo on the
website), MarketMiss lacked simplicity for sellers and so the marketplace stalled with too little
supply. The CEO complained, “We couldn't get enough velocity. If you were a seller putting the
stuff on the platform, there was just enough friction. They were like, this isn't really worth it.
In sum, MarketMiss never built a core capability or other activities, or used data science.
Instead, they pursued growth by growth hacks and searching for product-market fit with a complex
core transaction. They peaked at several hundred thousand users and were never profitable. As an
37
executive admitted, “The first thing we need to do is kind of own up to the fact that we have to
sunset our peer-to-peer marketplace”. In 2012, the team shut down MarketMiss. The CEO
summarized, “Peer-to-peer wasn't the right business”.
DISCUSSION
We began by observing that while promising ventures like WeWork may initially grow, without a
scalable business model they may ultimately struggle in the transition to a profitable, growing
adolescent firm. By studying six promising ventures across three business models in online
fashion, we develop a theoretical framework for how entrepreneurs build scalable (i.e., profitable
growth) business models (Table 6). We contribute to the learning literature by indicating when and
what is actually learned. To the business model literature, we add insights into how entrepreneurs
achieve high-performing business models, including how data science can create optimal
distinctiveness and extreme scalability. More broadly, we contribute to organization theory by
introducing activity systems as a key feature of the internal organization through which work gets
done, and by clarifying the relationship between internal and external growth. Overall, we unpack
the transition from a promising venture to a successful adolescent firm.
Emergent theoretical framework
Our primary contribution is an emergent theoretical framework for building scalable business
models (Table 6). Our theoretical framework indicates that successful entrepreneurs first 1) slowly
design a simple and profitable core transaction by actively delaying growth, and then 2) accelerate
by sequentially building a core capability followed by a complete activity system. Thus, they
follow a phased and exponential-growth process.
First, successful entrepreneurs begin by designing a simple and profitable core transaction.
These entrepreneurs use a variety of learning approaches consistent with prior literature, such as
experimentation, trial and error, and analogical reasoning (e.g., Murray and Tripsas, 2004; Gavetti
38
et al., 2005; Ott et al., 2017). Yet, their common outcome is a simple and profitable core
transaction. A simple transaction (i.e., fewer elements) clarifies the unit economics, and contains
fewer parts that must work together well. Such a simple “semi-structure” is also robust in highly
uncertain markets like nascent ones (Davis et al., 2009). Further, while growth may solve many
problems, it does not solve unprofitable unit economics. Thus, establishing a simple, profitable
core transaction provides the scaffolding for scaling. The cost of this deliberate and broad learning,
however, is slow pace and low growth. Indeed, successful entrepreneurs actively delayed growth
to provide time to conceptualize and learn broadly how to be “smartly simple”. In contrast, less
successful entrepreneurs race to add revenue. Yet, by learning and conceptualizing narrowly, they
resolve few uncertainties and often end up with a complex and likely unprofitable core transaction.
Second, successful entrepreneurs then flesh out the core transaction by sequentially
building an activity system. These activities are a key feature of internal organization. Specifically,
these entrepreneurs begin by a core capability that is central to their business model. This
capability is critical because it is valuable, often rare, and difficult to imitate in at least the short
run thus, providing competitive advantage. They then complement the core capability with other
activities to complete the activity system. By anchoring with a core capability and elaborating
from there, the activity system remains loosely coupled longer, leaving room for serendipitous
adaptation. In contrast, less successful entrepreneurs proceed with “growth hacks” like ads and
price-cutting promotions that may spur revenue that may not last. While these entrepreneurs may
build a core capability, they often do not complete their activity systems and integrate their
activities too soon or not at all.
Learning literature: Equifinality, simplicity and profitability
We also contribute to the learning literature by highlighting what is learned. Prior research
indicates relevant processes like experimentation (Murray and Tripsas, 2004; Camuffo et al., 2019;
39
Bremner and Eisenhardt, 2020), trial-and-error (Rindova and Kotha, 2001), bricolage (Baker and
Nelson, 2005), and analogical reasoning (Gavetti et al., 2005). Extending this work, we find that
successful entrepreneurs use a variety of processes. For example, RentRoyale emphasized the
experimentation approach of lean startup while StarStyle engaged in more conceptualization and
trial-and-error as well as experimentation. MarketMagic often relied on analogical reasoning to
similar firms like StubHub and to their own prior venture. Yet they all reached the same outcome
of a simple and profitable core transaction. Thus, while many processes can be useful, the common
practice is a) learning deliberately and broadly to identify a simple and profitable core transaction,
and b) organizing problem solving to focus on a core capability and then activities.
Business models: Core transaction and data science
We also contribute to the business model literature that centers on the attributes of high-
performing business models like novelty, optimal distinctiveness and fit. First, we add by
highlighting the early importance of the core transaction for a later high-performing business
model. While prior work suggests that novelty (Zott and Amit, 2007, Chesborough and
Rosenbloom, 2002), fit (Tidhar and Eisenhardt, 2020) and optimal distinctiveness are relevant
(Navis and Glynn, 2010; Zhao et al., 2018), we point to the simplicity and profitability of the core
transaction, particularly its unit economics. Without profitable unit economics, firms lose more
money on every transaction even as they grow. Without simplicity, transactions are prone to
difficulties in making the transaction actually work, high costs due to more elements, less clarity
about unit economics, and unresolved uncertainties.
Second, we contribute insights into the role of data science for high-performing business
models. By using data science, firms can amplify optimal distinctiveness. That is, they take
familiar offline capabilities like merchandising and personal styling, and transform them by
synergistically integrating algorithms with human action. The resulting activities are familiar in
40
terms of their functionality but also different (and often cheaper and more effective) from what
they were. Data science also enables extreme scaling. With the scale free economics of algorithms
(Levinthal and Wu, 2010), they become cheaper per unit with growth. Thus, when algorithms take
advantage of what humans do well and blend those strengths with the computational power (and
scale-free economics) of algorithms, the resulting activities are highly scalable. Finally, algorithms
built on machine learning and other forms of AI become smarter with growth, further enhancing
scaling. Indeed, StyleStar’s machine learning widened the gap as the venture grew relative to
StyleStuck that used traditional software that may scale, but does not become smarter.
Organization theory: Activity systems, growth, and scaling
More broadly, we contribute to organization theory writ large by introducing activity
system as a key feature of internal organization. While activity systems are recognized in strategy
(Porter and Siggelkow, 2008; Ott and Eisenhardt, 2020), organization theory emphasizes features
like team composition, organization design, and culture (DeSantola and Gulati, 2017). Yet activity
systems (i.e., organizational processes as well as underlying skills and assets) add by emphasizing
how work actually gets done. Moreover, we add to the related strategy research (notably the
resource-based view) by unpacking how executives build activity systems. Strategy research
emphasizes antecedents of capabilities like experience (e.g., Benner and Tripsas, 2012) and their
outcomes (e.g., Eggers, 2012), but overlooks the activities that support them. By emphasizing core
capabilities (i.e., VRIN resources), this work underplays the activity system as a whole. We
contribute by unpacking how activity systems are built and their relationship to core capabilities.
Second, we contribute by unpacking how firms grow and more importantly, scale. Prior
work emphasizes antecedents of growth like team features (e.g., Burton and Beckman, 2007;
Eisenhardt and Schoonhoven, 1990) and outcomes like routinizing (DeSantola and Gulati, 2017),
but leaves open the process of growth. Recent work on scaling adds by offering that internal
41
growth like headcount is linked with external growth like revenue (DeSantola and Gulati, 2017).
We contribute by noting that the internal organization likely lays the foundation for profitable
external growth. In particular, our data suggest that a complete activity system that supports a
simple, profitable core transaction distinguishes promising ventures that become successful
adolescent firms i.e. ones that scale - from those that do not.
Finally, it is useful to consider alternative explanations. A key one is that the successful
entrepreneurs were simply smarter or more astute. While possible, the less successful ones had
similarly elite backgrounds and top-tier VC backing. Moreover, even if they were more talented,
this still leaves open what they did. In contrast, our work offers insights into the behaviors for
designing high-performing business models. Moreover, the launch point for these behaviors likely
is appreciation of profitable unit economics rather than belief in mantras like “get big fast”,
product-market fit, or “growth solves all problems”. While these mantras may be true in some
businesses like software, they are less useful when unit economics are highly relevant.
CONCLUSION
We began by noting that many high-growth ventures like WeWork stumble to become profitably
growing adolescent firms. With a deep-dive into three matched venture-pairs in the nascent online
fashion industry, we develop a theoretical framework that indicates how firms scale i.e., phased,
exponential-growth process in which slow early growth that enables learning about the core
transaction is followed by accelerating growth driven by completing an activity system. Overall,
we emphasize how promising ventures become successful adolescent firms.
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TABLES AND FIGURES
TABLE 1. Overview of ventures.
Business model
template (offline
substitute)
Retail (Retail w/personal styling)
Rental (Buying retail)
Marketplace (Thrift stores)
Business model
challenges
Clothing recommendations: High
Logistics: Moderate
Engaged community: Low
Time sensitivity: Low
Clothing recommendations: Low
Logistics: High
Engaged community: Low
Time sensitivity: High
Clothing recommendations: Low
Logistics: Low
Engaging community: High
Time sensitivity: Moderate
Firm
StyleStar
StyleStuck
RentRoyale
RentWreck
MarketMagic
MarketMiss
Founding
2010
2010
2009
2012
2011
2010
Location
U.S.
U.S.
U.S.
U.S.
U.S.
U.S.
Series A
$5M (2013)
$11M (2011)
$15M (2011)
$4M (2013)
$12M (2012)
$7M (2011)
# of founders
(average age)
2
(28)
2
(32)
2
(27)
2
(29)
4
(37)
3
(29)
Education
(highest degree)
Elite MBA
Elite MBA
Elite MBA
BA Economics
Elite MBA, MS CS
Elite MBA, BA
CS
Entrepreneurial
experience
None
Successful
founder (retail)
None
None
Successful founding
team (ecommerce)
Successful
founder
(education)
Industry experience
Consulting, retail,
venture capital
Finance, retail,
internet
Hospitality,
banking
Finance, banking
Internet, retail
Internet, education
46
TABLE 2. Overview of data sources.
Business model template
Retail
Rental
Marketplace
Firm
StyleStar
StyleStuck
RentRoyale
RentWreck
MarketMagic
MarketMiss
Internal interviews
23
12
19
10
17
12
Key informants
CEO
CTO
Chief
Merchandise
Officer
Product Manager
CEO
COO
Co-founder
Manager
Board member
CEO
Co-founder
CTO
Senior Data
Scientist
Data Engineer
CEO
Co-founder
VP Strategy
Board member
CEO
Director Product
Senior
Community
Manager
Board member
CEO
CTO
CPO
Product Manager
News articles (focal
articles) Examples
466 (14)
Fast Company,
Forbes,
TechCrunch
380 (13)
BizJournal,
TechCrunch,
Entrepreneur
441 (21)
New York Times,
Wall Street
Journal
116 (22)
TechCrunch,
Bloomberg,
Fast
Company
291 (16)
New York
Times,
Forbes,
VentureBeat
118 (25)
Chicago
Tribune,
Mercury News,
Business Insider
Corporate press releases
143
100
96
43
41
12
Teaching cases
2
1
1
-
-
1
Consumer trials by
research team
2
-
3
1
3
-
47
TABLE 3. Performance (end of study).
Era 2 revenue growth = Revenue at Era 2 end/revenue at Era 2 start.
Business model
Retail
Rental
Marketplace
Firm
StyleStar
StyleStuck
RentRoyale
RentWreck
MarketMagic
MarketMiss
Founding year
2010
2010
2009
2012
2011
2010
End of study year
(Event)
2015
(Profitable)
2014
(Exit)
2016
(Profitable)
2017
(Exit)
2017
(Profitable)
2012
(Exit)
External growth
Annual revenue
(end of study)
$300M
$100M
$100M
$75M
$80M
$1.5M
Annual revenue
(post study 2018)
>$1B
NA
>$250M
NA
>$150M
NA
Era 2 revenue
growth
1
6x
2x
3x
2x
2x
1.5x
Series D
(Valuation.)
Yes
($1.5B)
NA
Yes
($600M)
NA
Yes
($300M)
NA
$1B Unicorn
valuation (Year)
IPO
Yes
(2015)
Yes
No
No
Yes
(2019)
No
Yes
(2019)
No
Internal growth
(Business-model
specific metric)
Employees:
2,000
Employees:
425
Inventory:
100,000 items
Inventory:
80,000 items
Community:
20M
Community:
300K
Survival
Yes
No
Acquired by offline
incumbent (2014).
Team replaced.
Business failed.
Yes
.
No
Merged w/offline
incumbent (2017).
Team replaced.
Merged firm failed.
Yes.
No
Failed (2012).
Representative
quote
StyleStar
reinvented
retail.
Media
We didn't figure out
how to take down the
bigger opportunities,
the StyleStar
opportunity. Founder
At the leading edge
of driving change
in fashion.
Analyst
Founders were in
over their heads.
Board member
It was incredible. I
haven't seen a
marketplace
platform like that
ever. VC investor
We have to sunset our
peer-to-peer
marketplace.
Founder
48
TABLE 4. Design the core transaction (Era 1).
Firm
(Business
model)
Focus
Core
transaction
Simplicity
Core
transaction
Revenue
Core
transaction
Costs
Scope of
Learning
Growth
Hacks
Speed
Series
A
Size
Revenue
Employees
Customers
Representative Quote(s)
StyleStar
(Retail)
Profitability
(Unit
economics)
Simple
Clothing
prediction
w/one
styling
channel &
5 items
Increase
Buy-all
discount
(more sales)
$20 fee
(better
customers)
Decrease
Style survey
(styling)
Buy-all
discount
(shipping)
$20 fee
(theft)
5-day returns
(inventory)
Broad
6/6 elements
Trial & error
Some
experiments
Reasoning
No - Delay
Customer
waitlist
Slow
7 qtrs
$5M
Small
$500K
16
employees
500
customers
The first year was about proving this
works…Are women OK with things
showing up at their door? Do the
economics work? Will we make
money? CEO
It was almost like anti-growth. We
were first validating things and
making sure everything would work
well. CMO
StyleStuck
(Retail)
Growth
(Product
market fit)
Moderate
Clothing
prediction
w/three
styling
channels &
10 items
Increase
In-person
shopping
(more sales)
Increase
In-store sales
(real-
estate)
Stylists w/o
survey
(styling)
10-day
returns
(inventory)
Moderately
broad
5/6 elements
Trial & error
Some
experiments
Accelerate
Direct mail
Social
media ads
In-store
sales
Fast
5 qtrs
$11M
Large
$5.5M
60
employees
3500
customers
To be honest, it was largely, "Let's
just start selling clothes and see how
it goes." CEO
We didn’t know if we could ever get
our cost of goods low enough...But
we knew that we could convince a lot
of guys that this was a better way to
shop. CEO
RentRoyale
(Rental)
Profitability
(Unit
economics)
Simple
Reverse
logistics,
10% of
retail price
Increase
2-day returns
(more turns
per
garment)
Decrease
Buy at
wholesale
(inventory)
On-site dry
cleaner
(transit)
Broad
6/6
Many
experiments
Trial & error
Reasoning
Accelerate
Early minor
PR
No - Delay
Customer
waitlist
Slow
7 qtrs
$15M
Small
$1M
8 employees
2,000
customers
1,000 items
It’s really all about unit economics.
Co-founder
Our whole approach is to test things
out to see what works. CEO
RentWreck
(Rental)
Growth
Complex
Reverse
logistics,
clothing
prediction,
subscription
Increase:
Unlimited
shipping
(more
sales)
Free styling
(more
sales)
Low price
(more
sales)
Increase:
Stylists
(styling)
Buy at retail
(inventory)
Unlimited
shipping
(shipping)
Narrow
3/8
Trial & error
Accelerate
Major PR
Social
media ads
Google ads
Customer
referrals
program
Fast
5 qtrs
$4M
Large
$2M
13
employees
2,000
customers
5,000 items
We didn't dwell on the concept for
too long. We just started buying
clothes and sending them out to
friends, relatives, really anyone who
would take a box. Co-founder
We just started buying Google Ad
Words to drive people to our landing
page. Co-founder
49
MarketMagic
(Marketplace)
Profitability
(Unit
economics)
Simple
Marketplace
w/ 20% fee
Increase
Low seller
friction
(more
supply)
Parties (more
transactions
and users)
Decrease
No inventory
(inventory)
No matching
(platform)
Broad
3/3
Analogy
Experience
Reasoning
Trial & error
No - Delay
Invite-only
events
Slow
7 qtrs
$12M
Small
$1M
15
employees
2,000
customers
We were one of those companies that
was almost anti-growth. CEO
Simplicity. We love it. CEO
MarketMiss
(Marketplace)
Growth
(Get big
fast)
Complex
Marketplace
w/ buyer &
transaction
fees, buyer-
seller
matching,
subscription
.
Increase:
New
customer
segments
(more sales)
Increase:
Handle
inventory
(logistics)
Buyer-seller
matching
(platform)
Narrow
1/5
Trial & error
Some
experiments
Accelerate
Major PR
Charity
drives
Promotions
Fast
3 qtrs
$7M
Large
$1M
8 employees
12,000
customers
For businesses with 2-sided
markets…you need enormous scale.
Figuring out easy ways to sell your
stuff. CEO
We partnered with a couple brands to
create this Willy Wonka golden ticket
experience. CTO
50
TABLE 5: Building the activity system (Era 2).
Firm
(Business
model)
Focus
(1
st
year
w/profit)
Representative
Quote
Core
capability
(value)
Representative Quote
Activity system
# (activities)
Data Science
Capability
(strength)
Representative
Quote
Analogies
(Depth)
StyleStar
(Retail)
Profitable
growth
2015
Always… carefully
walking the line
between growth and
profitability. CMO
Prediction
(High)
Now it’s this huge
collection of algorithmic
capabilities that are
operating as a system
now
Executive
4 (styling,
merchandising,
warehousing,
global
optimization)
C-suite - Yes
Hired leading
data scientist,
40 data
scientists
Multiple data
science teams
AI in styling,
merch etc.
(High)
From Day 0, we
were always a data
company. CEO
Amazon,
Netflix
(Deep)
StyleStuck
(Retail)
Growth
(Product-
market fit)
NA
I believe in sales and
design. So build a
great product… and
if it's good enough,
then you need sales
people to take it to
market CEO
Sales
(Moderate)
We’re a sales company
that happens to use a
lot of awesome
technology. CEO
Our biggest team is
sales.
CEO
3 (branding to
target wealthy
customers,
merchandising,
CRM)
C-Suite No
4 data scientists
Sales support
software
(Weak)
We didn’t do a lot of
data science.
StyleStar did so
much more data
science than we ever
did. CEO
Starbucks,
financial
services
(Surface)
RentRoyale
(Rental)
Profitable
growth
2016
Profitability has
always been
something that
we’ve been focused
on. CEO
If the entire growth is
driven by paid
marketing, that
doesn’t scale. CEO
Reverse
logistics
(High)
The magic of what we
built was the back-end.
We knew how to rent it,
clean it, process it. We
knew how work with all
these shipping vendors.
Executive
It’s an operations
company. CEO
5 (cleaning,
repairs,
warehousing,
shipping,
merchndsng)
C-suite Yes
Hired leading
data scientist,
Multiple data
science teams,
AI logistics &
dynamic pricing
(High)
This sophisticated
pricing engine…
altered the trajectory
of user growth.
Executive
Data is a precious
asset…it becomes a
competitive asset for
us. CEO
Airlines,
Car rental
(Deep)
51
RentWreck
(Rental)
Growth
NA
Growth, growth,
growth, growth. VC
They could never get
to unit economics
that made sense.
Board member
Brand
(Moderate)
Brand drives scale for
any direct to consumer
business. Executive
2 (brand, styling,
warehousing)
C-suite No
A few data
scientists.
Styling, but
canceled
Some logistics
(Weak)
Nothing that I would
say was ‘rocket
science’. VCT
They weren’t willing
to invest in
infrastructure
because they wanted
to show top-line
growth. VC
Netflix
(Surface)
MarketMagic
(Marketplace)
Growth,
turnaround
profitable
growth
2017
And now it’s just
growing. CEO
'13 to '14 was
stabilizing CEO
Fundamental growth
instead of growth
hacking. VC
Community
Engagment
(High)
MarketMagic is very
much powered around
community. CEO
I honestly believe that
the MarketMagic success
and growth is from the
push on community.
Senior manager
4 (community
events,
platform,
payments,
shipping)
C-suite Yes
2 co-founders
CS experts
Multiple softwre
teams
Platform &
concurrency
(Moderately
high)
If you look at eBay
and Amazon, the
foundation of these
giants is search.
We believe there’s
an opportunity to
build a scalable
business model
around discovery.
CEO
StubHub,
Prior
venture
(Deep)
MarketMiss
(Marketplace)
Growth
(Get big
fast)
NA
We were just doing
things that we
thought would unlock
engagement and
growth. CPO
NA
NA
None.
C-suite Yes
1 co-founder
BA CS
No data science
Manual order
processing
In engineering, half
our code is obsolete.
It was like the DNA
of the company
needed to shift. CTO
Library
(Surface)
52
TABLE 6. Emergent theoretical framework: Scaling business models.
Era 1: Designing a simple and profitable core transaction
Successful
Less successful
Rationale
Focus
Profitability (unit
economics)
Growth (revenue)
Unit economics determine profitability of
business model.
Difficult to change unit economics once
established.
Growth does not solve unit economics problems.
Conceptualization
and Learning
Broad
Mixed approaches
Narrow (sales)
Broad conceptualization and learning advances
understanding of entire unit economics.
Helps clarify improvements and simplifications.
Perspectives
Simplicity,
profitability
Product-market fit
Get big fast
Grow users,
transactions,
revenue
Simple transaction has fewer elements and so is
more robust.
Simplicity clarifies underlying unit economics.
Profitability of core transaction does not change
with growth.
Profitability central to business’ long-term
survival.
Pace
Actively delay growth
Slow
Fast
Broad learning and simplifying takes time.
Outcome
Simple, likely
profitable core
transaction
Complex, unlikely
profitable core
transaction
Establishes scaffolding upon which to scale (i.e.,
profitably grow).
Era 2: Accelerating by building a complete activity system
Successful
Less successful
Rationale
Focus
Profitable growth
Growth
Growth without profit does not scale.
Actions
Build core capability
Complete activity
system
Sometimes build a
modest core
capability
Growth hacks
Create potential competitive advantage and
repeatable (not temporary) activities.
Data science
High investment in
superior and many
data scientists
Limited investment
Enhances optimal distinctiveness with familiar
yet uniquely high-performing capabilities,
and provides extreme scalability i.e.,
smarter and cheaper with growth.
Integration
of activities
Later integration
Emphasis on only
marketing and
sales activities
Or early integration
Later integration creates a loosely coupled
activity system that can adapt.
Leaves room for serendipitous insights.
Building
sequence
Core capability, then
other activities
Successive growth
hacks
Begin with most critical capability.
Add complementary activities.
Outcome
Core capability plus
complete activity
system
Mis-fitting, tightly
integrated, and/or
incomplete activity
system.
Creates a foundation scaling (i.e., profitable
growth).
Core capability is often valuable, rare and
inimitable and so creates competitive
advantage.
53