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Reminiscences of Lafcadio Hearn Reminiscences of Lafcadio Hearn
Setsuko Koizumi
Paul Kiyoshi Hisada
Frederick Johnson
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Reminiscences of
Lafcadio Hearn
by Setsuko Koizumi
(Mrs. Hearn)
Translated from the Japanese by
Paul Kiyoshi Hisada and Frederick Johnson
Setsuko Koizumi (1868–1932) was the daugh-
ter of a Japanese samurai family in Matsué.
In 1891 she married a foreigner — Lafcadio
Hearn (1850–1904) — and their union lasted
13 years and produced three children. Hearn
adopted her family name, becoming Koizumi
Yakumo 小泉八雲,and spent those years in
Japan writing, teaching, and achieving inter-
national recognition. Setsuko’s Reminiscences
tells something of the couple’s moves and
travels, but focuses mostly on the character,
habits, and eccentricities of her husband. The
book is a heartfelt and intimate portrait of a
marriage that brought Lafcadio the home and
family he had never before enjoyed. This book
shares a charming story of domestic happi-
ness, told by his closest companion, collabora-
tor, and interpreter of life, death, and afterlife
in Meiji Japan.
ISBN 978-1-60962-228-2 ebook
doi:10.32873/unl.dc.zea.1314
Cover: Koizumi Yakumo and Setsuko Koizumi
Zea Books
Lincoln, Nebraska
Reminiscences of
Lafcadio Hearn
by
Setsuko Koizumi
(Mrs. Hearn)
Translated from the Japanese by
Paul Kiyoshi Hisada and Frederick Johnson
Zea Books
Lincoln, Nebraska
2022
Copyright, 1918, by Houghton Mifin Company.
Now in the public domain.
ISBN 978-1-60962-227-5 paperback
ISBN 978-1-60962-228-2 ebook
doi:10.32873/unl.dc.zea.1314
Zea Books are published by the
University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries.
Electronic (pdf) edition available online at
https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/zeabook/
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3
INTRODUCTION
“When a ship sails away, she leaves smoke behind;
Alas, that smoke causes my heart to ache.”
It is sad to be left behind. After spending
years in a land which is not mine, amongst
people whose language also is not mine,
when I visit home, time knows no sympa-
thy, and my two months pass away like an
ever-fascinating dream. It was my last day
in Japan, and in the morning I would sail
away. I had seen everybody I wanted to
meet, except one, Mrs. Setzuko Koizumi,
who lives in Okubo, the outskirt district
of Tokyo.
The pouring rain and long distance did
not stop my going there. Not having her
exact address might have discouraged me,
but I felt it would make the visit still more
interesting should I succeed.
Tokyo was an utterly strange city to
me, and the development of the city had
advanced with a Herculean stride. Taking
one street car after another, transferring
4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
two or three times, I reached a station
called Okubo, and inquired for the where-
abouts of Mrs. Koizumi, but nobody
seemed to know. I added the name Hearn,
but even that brought no answer, until I
said, “A Japanese woman who married
a foreigner”; then they suggested the di-
rection. After walking a distance of sev-
eral . blocks, I came to a very artistic gate,
which * led diagonally to a house, by a
stone-paved walk, and there was the name
Koizumi on the door.
Opening a sliding door of latticework,
I said “Dozo —” (please —), and a young
Japanese girl responded, who was one of
Hearn’s children. At my request to see the
mistress of the house, she bowed politely,
and returned with a young man, who was
Kazuo, the eldest son of Hearn, who is in
Waseda College. He resembles his father,
but his color is typically Japanese. Tell-
ing him about my work of translation, and
my admiration for his father, induced him
to bring his mother to join in the conver-
sation. I found her a woman of motherly
appearance, and she showed in every way
a ne Japanese character.” One could tell
easily that she was of Samurai descent.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 5
When she observed my intense desire
to see Hearn’s study, she guided me there,
where he worked until his last days, and
I found the place in order as neatly as he
left it. His desk was built up higher than
ordinary ones, on account of his eyesight,
and the row of books in the bookcase were
as if telling the stories of the days when
Hearn worked in this very room. In a cor-
ner of the study, I saw a modest Bud-
dhistic family altar, where was enclosed
a portrait photograph of Hearn, in front
of which rose the smoke of incense, like
a lmy gauze; and I naturally paid my
hearty homage to the spirit of the patri-
arch, the English writer who linked the
East and the West. There is no one who
did more to bring the inner thought and
ideal of Japan to the West than Hearn. He
received no public recognition, nor was he
decorated in Japan, but the outer world
places a crown of laurel upon him. “Todai
moto kurashi” (the foot of the beacon is
dark).
One of Hearn’s three children, Kiyoshi,
who attends the art school, was out. Had
I met him I should have had the pleasure
of seeing all the Hearns. His name (which
6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
means “unsophisticated,” “cleanliness,” or
“good nature”) is the same as mine; that
interested me. “Please tell me why Sense!
named him Kiyoshi,” I said. “Just because
father liked the sound of the name,” re-
plied Kazuo.
While the two sticks of incense that
I had offered burned serenely, my heart
was lled with sentiment toward his work,
and his words, often repeated in the class-
room of the Tokyo Imperial College, “The
pen is mightier than the sword.” I bade
them good-bye and thanked them for their
courtesy, and was glad that I had seen the
house and garden and owers and trees
on a rainy day, instead of a ne day. Me-
seems rainy days might be the days that
Hearn enjoyed better than clear days with
blue sky.
With the consent of Mrs. Hearn, I have
translated her story into English, and rst
of all, I present a copy to be placed on the
tomb of the deceased writer. May his spirit
accept this copy, and may he think of the
country that he adopted by choice, and his
devoted wife, who has written her remi-
niscences of this gifted son of the Isle of
Leucadia, Greece.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 7
This little book came to be printed
through the good efforts of my friend,
Frederick Johnson. Without him, I never
should have seen it in type. I share the
name of translator with him, and I return
to him full gratitude and thanks.
ki yosHi Hi s a d a
8
9
REMINISCENCES OF
LAFCADIO HEARN
I
HEARN came to Japan in the spring
of the twenty-third year of Meiji (1891).
He immediately discontinued his busi-
ness relations with the publishing-house
of Harper & Brothers. That is why he
had great difculty in earning a living af-
ter coming far away to a foreign land. He
accepted a position in a school in Izumo,
because Izumo was the oldest province
where many shadows of great historic
events would remain. He did not mind the
isolation nor the inconveniences, and, as
he was a bachelor, he did not care much
about the salary. So he went there.
He stopped a night in Shimoichi, in
Hoki Province, and there he saw a dance
at the Bon Matsuri (Buddhist Festival of
the Dead) which he thought very interest-
ing. He crossed the lagoon from Yonago,
and arrived in Matsué on the shore near
a large bridge. It was the latter part of
August. At that time the steam railway
1 0 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
connected Tokyo with Okayama, but from
that point he was obliged to cross moun-
tain after mountain until he reached Yo-
nago, and lodgings for the night were very
poor.
Passing through a succession of vil-
lages, the traveler suddenly comes to Mat-
sué, which is a very clean city, and one
that surprises and astonishes the visitor.
By crossing the large bridge, it is possi-
ble to obtain, toward the east, a distant
view of Mount Oyama in Hoki Province,
called “Izumo Fuji” by the natives be-
cause its shape resembles the other Fuji.
The Ohashi River slowly ows in that di-
rection. On the western horizon, sky and
lake meet and mingle; square white sails
appear to hover above the tranquil waters.
Near the shore is an islet bearing ve or
six pine trees, and on it is a shrine to the
goddess Benten. It seemed to me that this
was Hearn’s favorite view.
The population of Matsué was about
forty thousand. It had been a feudal
stronghold of Naomasa’s, a relative by
blood of Ieyasu, and, after several gen-
erations, became the home of a lord
named Fumaiko. That is why there was
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 11
a pronounced æsthetic atmosphere about
this city in spite of its being in an isolated
region. Hearn taught in the Middle School
and in the Normal School. Mr. Nishida,
dean of the professors, was unusually
kind to him. They became very intimate,
and liked each other well. Hearn had
great condence in Mr. Nishida, and al-
ways praised him. “Clever, kind, learned,
and brave, he points out my mistakes; he
tells me all; he is a real man, an amiable
man, and not a atterer.” Mr. Nishida,
unfortunately, was always suffering and
never in good health. “He is always ill.
How bad God is! I am angry,” Hearn used
to say. “This is a very cruel world that
so good a man can be so ill. Why cannot
the bad men have all the diseases?” Even
after we came to Tokyo, Hearn worried
about Mr. Nishida’s health. Mr. Nishida
died on the fteenth of March, in the thir-
tieth year of Meiji. Once after his death,
Hearn said: “To-day I thought that I saw
Mr. Nishida. His back was toward me.
I made my kurumaya hurry. It was as-
tonishing how much that man resembled
Mr. Nishida!” He felt very kindly toward
the stranger because of that resemblance.
1 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
When he went to Waseda University, he
thought that Professor Takada reminded
him of Mr. Nishida, and he was exceed-
ingly pleased.
At that time the governor was Mr.
Kagoteda. He was very earnest about
keeping alive the national spirit of former
days. He had self-control, like a daimyo
(feudal lord); he was fond of fencing, and
was very skillful in that art. Just then
there was a revival of the chivalry of Bush-
ido (the practical religion of the old war-
rior class of feudal Japan), and its accom-
panying contests with swords and spears.
Old-fashioned horse-races were held again,
and old people of the past generation be-
longing to the samurai class could think
that they were living once more in the
days of their youth. Hearn was much de-
lighted. He was invited to all those events,
and was well received by the governor.
Everything he saw or heard was new
to Hearn, and he took much pleasure in
writing down whatever was interesting.
The pupils and the teachers of the Middle
School and of the Normal School all liked
Hearn, and the local papers printed arti-
cles about him and praised him. He had
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 13
this reputation: “Hearn is too good a man
to be in so isolated a place.”
But Hearn liked such isolated places.
He liked Matsué far better than Tokyo.
The island of Oki was superior to Nikko.
He never saw Nikko. After coming to Mat-
sué, he never had a chance to go there.
He said he had no desire to see Nikko, al-
though, if he had gone, I know that he
would have liked that double row of cryp-
tomerias (Japanese cedars) and the woods.
When I went to him, I found only one
table and a chair, a few books, one suit of
clothes, and one set of Japanese kimono.
When he returned from the school,
he immediately put on a kimono, sat on
a zabuton (square cushion for the oor),
and smoked a pipeful of tobacco. He liked
everything Japanese, and drew nearer
and nearer to the Japanese style of liv-
ing. Speaking of Western things, he said:
“There are many beautiful things in Ja-
pan. Why do they imitate Western things?”
That was his plaint. He always forgot him-
self when he saw an interesting or a beau-
tiful object.
In Matsué he frequently went to ban-
quets, and he often invited to his home
1 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
and entertained there two or three teach-
ers from the school. He enjoyed listening
to the folklore and various popular songs.
He liked Japanese costumes, and wore the
haori and hakama (coat and wide plaited
trousers for formal occasions) when he
made the round of ceremonious calls at
New Year’s. He was received with old-
fashioned ceremony at the governor’s res-
idence, and was exceedingly delighted
with those occasions. When he rst came
to Matsué, he stopped for a while in a ho-
tel on Zaimokucho, but soon hurried away
to another place. There might have been
other reasons, but the main cause of his
departure was a little girl who suffered
from a disease of the eyes. He thought
of her with sorrow, and begged the little
one’s relatives to let her go to be treated
at the hospital; but the landlord only said,
“Yes, yes,” and postponed doing so indef-
initely. Hearn was angered, and left the
hotel with the words, “Strange and un-
sympathetic man, who is without a par-
ent’s heart!” Then he moved to another
place, and hired a hanarézashiki (de-
tached dwelling in a garden). “However,”
said Hearn, “the girl is not in the least to
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 15
blame, only I am sorry for her.” So he had
the doctor treat her and cure her.
He himself had weak eyes, and he al-
ways paid a great deal of attention to
them. When his first son was born, he
made a wish with great anxiety, saying,
“Come into this world with good eyes!”
He had always a deep sympathy for those
with poor eyes. At home, when Hearn saw
shosei-san (young students given homes in
private families) reading a newspaper or a
book on the oor, he would say to them at
once, “Hold up the book when you read!”
I married him a short time after he had
moved to his new quarters from the hotel.
Hearn had a peculiar temperament, and
it caused me much trouble. A man moved
into our neighborhood and called on him.
This man had been in the same hotel on
Zaimokucho, and was a friend of the ho-
tel-keeper. He came to borrow a corkscrew.
After greeting him, Hearn asked, “Is it you
who stayed at that hotel in Zaimokucho,
and were a friend of the hotel-keeper’s?”
The man answered, “Yes, I am his friend.”
Hearn replied, “I dislike you because you
are that strange and unsympathetic fel-
low’s friend. Sayonara. Good-bye!” and
1 6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
left him and went inside the house. This
man naturally did not understand what
the trouble was, so I tried to explain, but I
was very much embarrassed.
This hanarézashiki of Suetsugu com-
manded an excellent view of the lake,
and the beautiful scene pleased Hearn
immensely.
We began our married life there, but
suffered from many inconveniences. Early
in the summer of the twenty-fourth year of
Meiji (1892), we moved over to a samurai
estate and kept house. We moved with a
maid and a pussy-cat. One evening in the
early spring of that year while the air was
yet chill and penetrating, I was standing
on the veranda admiring the sunset on the
lake, when I saw, directly below the ve-
randa along the shore, four or ve naughty
children ducking pussy up and down in the
water and cruelly teasing her. I begged
pussy of the children, brought her back
to the house, and told the story to Hearn.
“Oh, poor puss!” he exclaimed. “What cruel
children they were!” And he held the shiv-
ering pussy right in his bosom to warm
her. That time I felt a great admiration
for him.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 17
After we moved to our estate, Kitabori,
we missed the view of the lake, but we
had left the noise of the city. There was
a running stream directly in front of the
gate, and on the other bank we could see
the spire of the castle through the woods.
This estate was different from others, be-
ing a samurai estate. We found it in very
good taste, and the reception hall and all
the rooms were well arranged. At the back
were a hill and the garden, and this gar-
den was a favorite spot where we enjoyed
walking about in our yukata (light kimono
for lounging), wearing garden clogs. The
mountain pigeon coos, “Te-te-pop, ka-ka-
po-po !” When he heard the mountain pi-
geon coo, Hearn used to call me to come
to him. “Do you hear that? Isn’t that de-
lightful?” And he himself would imitate
the sound, “Te-te-pop, ka-ka-po-po!” and
ask, “Did I do it right?”
There was a lotus-pond in the garden,
and we saw a snake in it. “Snakes never
harm you unless you hurt them,” Hearn
said; and he shared his food from the table
with the snake. “I am giving you this food
so that you will not eat the frogs,” he told
the snake. Then he related some of the
1 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
incidents in his life. “When I was in the
West Indies, studying, the snakes would
often crawl up my left arm, over my shoul-
ders, and down my right arm. But I paid
no attention to them and kept on studying.
Snakes are not harmful; they are not bad.”
It may seem funny for me to mention
the fact that Hearn was an extremely hon-
est man. He did not have the least evil in
his mind. He had more delicate and kindly
sentiments than a girl. During his child-
hood he had always been teased by mali-
cious people until he cried. The keenness
of his sensibility was astonishing.
We once took a trip in the Province
of Hoki, to a place called Lake Togo. We
wished to stay there for a week, but the
inn was crowded with people having a gay
time, drinking and making a great deal of
noise. Hearn saw them, and immediately
pulled my sleeve. “We cannot stay. This
is jigoku (hell). It is no place for me, even
for a second.” In spite of the innkeeper’s
protests, and his greeting, “Yoku irashai-
mash’ta! (Welcome!) This way, please!”
as he tried to lead the way, Hearn said,
“I do not like it!” and left at once. Both
the innkeeper and the kurumaya were
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 19
surprised. It was a very noisy and common
inn, and, naturally, I loathed the place,
but Hearn called it jigoku. He never had
the least patience with anything he dis-
liked. I was still young then, and not used
to the world, so this peculiarity of Hearn’s
caused me embarrassment many times.
This was Hearn’s innate temperament,
and I thought it good.
As I remember, it was about this same
time that we visited the Kugurido near
Kaga-no-ura, in the Province of Izumo.
This place was a grotto on an island in
the sea, about two miles from the land.
Hearn was extremely fond of swimming,
and he swam all the way ahead of or be-
hind the boat. He took great delight in
giving me an exhibition of the different
strokes used in swimming. When the boat
reached the cave, the noise of the waves
washing against the rocks made a fearful
sound, and the drops of water fell down
“potari! potari!” The rowers knocked
against the side of the boat with a stone
“kong! kong!” This was to notify the de-
mon that the boat was coming in. After
the noise of the rock — “kong! kong!”
we heard a sound, “chabong! chabong!” as
2 0 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
if something had jumped into the water.
The rowers began to tell many horrid sto-
ries, pathetic and tragic, about the spot.
Hearn was going to take off his clothes,
which he had put on a little while before,
but the rowers said, “Master, do not do
so ! It is too dreadful to contemplate!” I
also said, “Do not go in swimming in such
a place! There are so many horrid fables
about it that something frightful may
dwell here.”
But Hearn said, “The water is so beau-
tiful, so dark a blue! The depth is un-
known. It may be several million fath-
oms! It would be great fun!” He was very
anxious to go in swimming, but nally re-
nounced the idea. He was very sulky, and,
even on the following day, he did not speak
because of this disappointment. Several
days later he said to me, “I once swam in a
place where they said it was very danger-
ous, but I escaped without accident. Only
I felt as if my body were melting away the
minute I went in. I had a bad fever at once.
Two of us went in at the same time. Sud-
denly my companion disappeared, and I
noticed the tail of a big shark right in front
of me.”
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 21
Hearn was still young and very vigor-
ous at the time when he lived in Matsué.
He often recalled his West Indian days,
and would say, “I wish I could show you
the West Indies!”
In 1892, when it came the time for the
summer vacation, Hearn went to visit the
holy shrine of Kizuki. The day after his
arrival, he wrote to me and asked me to
come too. I went to the hotel, and found
him absent; he was bathing in the sea.
His money was in a stocking and scat-
tered around — silver coins and bank-
notes were falling out. Hearn was so very
careless with his money that it was almost
amusing. He was born that way, and had
no mind for so common a thing. Only when
his children were born, or when he noticed
that his body was becoming weak, did he
take note of the state of his nances and
begin to worry about his family.
The abbot of the shrine was a friend of
Mr. Nishida’s. He knew of Hearn’s fond-
ness for Japan, and he gave him an un-
usual reception. Hearn mentioned the
fact that he was very desirous of seeing
the Bon Festival dance. It was a little too
early in the season, but the abbot gathered
2 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
several hundred men just for that purpose,
and they danced for us. Everybody who
took part was delighted, and gladly did his
best to show the movements of the dance.
This dance was very gay, and Hearn said,
“This is more like the harvest dance than
the Bon Festival dance.” During this trip
he learned the “Kimigayo” (national an-
them), and we used to sing it. Hearn was
as innocent as a child in his pleasures.
After a fortnight we returned to Matsué,
and, as it was about the time for the Bon
Odori dance, we took a trip to Shimo ichi in
order to see the dances. We took no guide.
Mr. Nishida had gone to Kyoto. It was our
rst journey of so long a distance as this
one. When we reached Shimoichi, we made
inquiry at the hotel where we had stopped
on the way down the preceding year. “This
year the police authorities have prohibited
the dancing,” the hotel proprietor told us.
Hearn was much disappointed and felt very
annoyed about it. “The police are worthless!
The old customs of Japan, very interesting
customs, are discarded. It is the Christians
who are to blame; they cast aside all the
Japanese ways, and try to imitate Western
things,” Hearn said, disgustedly.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 23
On this occasion we hunted all around
for the Bon Odori dances. We had the
same trouble on this trip which we had
had at the Togo hotel. At last we discov-
ered a place where they were going to
dance, but they received us insultingly,
and threw sand at Hearn because he was
a foreigner; they also refused to dance.
Afterward they came to apologize. It was
very strange. We returned to Matsué by
the end of August, and we talked these
things over with Mr. Nishida, who had
come back from Kyoto, and enjoyed tell-
ing him what had happened while we were
traveling about for a month. Besides this
trip, we frequently went off and spent the
night away from home.
Izumo was full of interest, and Hearn
liked the place, but, after being used to liv-
ing in a warm country like the West In-
dies, he suffered from the severe cold. At
the school they only had one large hiba-
chi (charcoal brazier) in the classroom. He
complained of the cold to Mr. Nishida, who
suggested that Hearn keep his overcoat on
while giving lessons. At that time he had
an overcoat that he used to wear in spite
of the fact that he called it a seaman’s. He
2 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
had taste, but, as this example shows, he
was very careless.
Let me recall the walks we had to-
gether in Kumamoto. One evening Hearn
came in from a walk and said, “I will take
you to a certain place to-morrow night.
I have found a very interesting spot.” It
was not a moonlight night. We walked
through lonely streets after leaving the
house. When we reached the foot of a hill,
he said, “It is on top of this.” A narrow
path led to the summit; shrubs and bam-
boos caught our feet, and we climbed to a
graveyard. Under the dim starlight I saw
a number of tombstones here and there,
and I thought it very dismal. Then Hearn
said, “Just listen to those frogs!” Again one
evening, while in Kumamoto, he returned
from his walk and remarked: “This eve-
ning I walked along a very lonely coun-
try road. I heard a dainty voice from out
the darkness — it was you calling me. I
stood still, but found nobody — nothing
but darkness.”
When Hearn was teaching in Kuma-
moto, we went to Oki Island from Hoki
Province during the summer vacation
time. We explored all the coves on that
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 25
island. We visited Saigo, Beppu, Ura-
no-go, and Hishiura. In the last place
we stopped for a week. Foreigners were
strange to the populace, and Hearn was
the first one who had ever come there.
There were mobs, and some of the crowd
lled the balcony of the house across the
street. Their weight broke the balcony, but
fortunately no one was injured. The police
were called out, and it was quite exciting.
In Saigo the chief physician of the hospi-
tal entertained us as Hearn was an unique
guest. He was much disturbed over our re-
cent experience, but, in order to make me
feel comfortable, he said, “It could n’t have
been more amusing!” and pretended to be
very calm; but I understand that he wrote
in one of his books that he was much dis-
turbed. We paid homage to the ancient em-
peror’s mausoleum. We also visited Mount
Kuroki where Emperor Godaigo once lived.
Near this place at Beppu, I remember that
they had no cakes with the tea, and that
they offered us some roasted beans.
On our way home from Kizuki, we hap-
pened to see the Bon dance in the shing
port of Sakai, in Hoki Province. Naturally,
all the participants were active shermen,
2 6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
and they clapped their hands vigorously
and were very lively in their movements.
Hearn remarked that it was the liveliest
dance he had ever witnessed. The dance
in Kizuki was merry and cheerful, like
the harvest dance; the dance in Shimoichi
offered veneration to the souls of the de-
parted; and the dance in Sakai was over-
owing with enthusiasm and animation.
I always remember a place in the
mountains where we stayed when we were
crossing from Hoki Province into Bingo
Province. The inn was a very wretched
one, but Hearn liked it. The kurumaya had
agreed to go about six miles farther on,
but, because of delays and broken roads,
the sun set before we crossed the moun-
tains and it grew dark. We traveled over
the mountain in the gathering gloom. It
was nearly autumn, and we heard the
noises of all kinds of insects as if the whole
mountain were alive with the songs of in-
sects, and yet this murmur only empha-
sized the tranquillity of the spot. “Is n’t
there an inn near here?” asked Hearn.
“Yes, a little way beyond, there are seven
houses. One of them takes lodgers, and I
wish you would stop there,” answered the
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 27
kurumaya, apologetically. As I remember,
it was about ten o’clock when we reached
the inn. It was really a small, shabby
farmhouse with a queer atmosphere about
it. The andon (paper lantern) gave a very
poor light, and the proprietors were an old
man and his wife. We saw three bravo-like
men talking there. We were shown to a
room upstairs, and the old woman left us
a tiny lamp and never came up again.
It was right after the oods of 1893,
and we heard the torrent rushing down
the near-by river-bed. The noise of the wa-
ter — “Go ... go” — made a terric sound.
Now and then the room was lighted
by reies which ew into and out of the
house; there were great numbers of them.
While we were looking out of the window,
we felt some kind of insect come swarm-
ing around us as if something were thrown
over us on our hands and faces. They were
very nasty insects. Sometimes crickets
came and sang close beside us as we knelt
on the oor.
We occasionally heard the bravo-like
men talking, and the stairs would creak
from time to time. We thought that the
bravos were climbing up, and we could not
2 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
help thinking of tales of the olden days
which we had read in books of adventure.
The old woman brought us our dinners
on trays. I asked her what those insects
were, and she told us that they were called
Natsu-mushi (summer insects), and that
there was nothing unusual about them. It
was indeed an isolated spot, and we felt as
if we were living in a dream. Hearn said,
“This is an interesting place, and I should
like to pass another night here.” Those
hotels for foreigners with modern facili-
ties in Hakone and elsewhere were not to
Hearn’s liking, but this kind of inn fasci-
nated him. If I had agreed, we might have
stayed there much longer in the Province
of Hoki, where the storm was heavy on the
sea. Hearn always wished to take a trip
through the Province of Hida, but he never
had the opportunity to do so.
When we were returning from Kobé,
Hearn said that he could not stay in To-
kyo for more than three years. From the
very rst he never cared for Tokyo, and
compared the city to “jigoku” (hell). I was
eagerly looking forward to seeing Tokyo,
but Hearn said to me, “You are thinking
that Tokyo still resembles that Yedo which
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 29
Hiroshigé depicted with his brush and col-
ors.” One of our reasons for going to Tokyo
was to give me an opportunity to see the
city. Hearn often said, “The three years
have passed, and now you have nished
your sightseeing in Tokyo. Let us go back!”
3 0
II
On August 27, 1897, we went to Tokyo
from Kobé. We heard at rst that there
were houses assigned to professors of the
university, but we wished to live far from
the university, in the suburb, and, al-
though we hunted for a house, we could
not nd a good one.
We received word that there was a
good, spacious house in the district of Ush-
igomé, if I remember rightly. We went to
see it, and found that it was one story in
height, and built in the old style. I imag-
ine that it had originally been erected for
hatamoto (a commander of the shogun’s
camp) or daimyo. The gateway looked like
the gateway to a temple, and, after enter-
ing, we found that the house looked more
and more like a temple. It had a large gar-
den, with a good-sized lotus-pond. But,
once inside, we noticed something very
ghostly about the place, and felt strange.
Hearn liked it, and said, “This is a very in-
teresting house.” He thought of taking it,
but I could not bear to live in such a place.
I learned afterward that it was haunted,
and that ogres had dwelt in it. On that
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 31
account the rental grew less and less, and
nally it was torn down. When I told this
to Hearn, he said, “Why did we not go
there to live? I was sure that it was an in-
teresting house!”
We moved to Tomihisa-cho. Here the
garden was small, but the view was ex-
cellent. Hearn was particularly fond of
this place. The neighboring building was
a Buddhist temple called Kobudera. This
temple had once been called Hagidera, and
there was an abundance of hagi (bush-clo-
ver) growing in the grounds. The temple
was very weatherworn, but it possessed a
grove of great cedar trees where an atmo-
sphere of tranquillity always reigned. Ev-
ery day we visited this temple in the morn-
ing and the evening. We soon made friends
with the abbot, and he used to tell us in-
teresting stories of Buddhist lore. That is
why I often went there too.
Hearn went about in a kimono, feeling
proud and cheerful. When any of his inti-
mate friends came to call, he took them to
that interesting temple of Kobudera. And
the children always thought that papa was
at the temple, if he was not to be seen in
the house.
3 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
Many times while out walking, he said,
“Mamma-san, is it hard to get in a temple?
Is n’t there any way by which I could live
in the temple?”
I replied, “You are not a priest, so per-
haps you cannot very well do so.”
“I should prefer to be a priest,” Hearn
said; “and how pleased I should be if I
could be one.”
“If you should become a priest, how
funny you would look with your large eyes
and high nose — a ne priest!” I remarked.
“You could become a nun at the same
time, and Kazuo [our eldest son] a nov-
ice. How cute he would look! Every day we
should read the scriptures and take care
of the graves. That would be true happi-
ness !”
“Pray that you may be born a priest in
the next world!”
“That is my wish,” replied Hearn.
One day, as usual, we took a walk to
the neighboring temple. Suddenly Hearn
exclaimed, “Oh! oh!” I did not know what
had happened, and was frightened. Then I
saw that three large cedar trees had been
cut down, and Hearn was gazing at them.
“Why did they cut down those trees?”
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 33
“This temple must be very poor, and
they must need some money,” I replied.
“Why did n’t they tell me about it? I can
easily give a little money to help them. I
should have been happier to have given
them some money and saved the trees.
Think how long a time was necessary for
those trees to grow from little sprouting
seeds!” He was very down-hearted. “I be-
gin to dislike that abbot. I am sorry for
him because he has no money, but I am
more sorry for those trees, Mamma-san!”
Hearn came out of the temple gate in a
lifeless manner, as if some great event had
taken place. He sat down in the chair in
his study, and was very much depressed.
“It hurts my heart to see that sight,” he
said. “There will be no more joy to-day.
Please beg the abbot not to cut down any
more trees.” After that time he seldom vis-
ited the temple.
The old abbot soon went away, and a
new young abbot succeeded him. Then
all the trees were cut down. When we
moved away, there were no trees to be
seen, the graves were gone, new tene-
ments had been built, and the whole place
changed. What Hearn had called his world
3 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
of tranquillity vanished in that manner.
Those three fallen trees had been the be-
ginning of the end.
I had always wished to live in a house
of small size, — a quiet country place
with a large garden and many trees. Af-
ter the profanation of Kobudera I looked
about in many directions. There was a
house for sale in Nishi Okubo. This house
was purely Japanese, and there was not a
building in foreign style to be seen in the
neighborhood.
I always desired a house of my own,
even if a small one, in preference to a
rented house, and I wished to build one.
When I suggested this, Hearn said, “Have
you money?” and I answered, “Yes, I have.”
Then he said, “Great fun! I will build a
house in the island of Oki”; and when I
opposed that, he added, “We will build
one in Izumo Province.” We even went in
search of land, but I did not like Izumo
well enough to build there, and we nally
decided to buy this estate and to build ad-
ditions later.
Hearn always wished to live in the
midst of purely Japanese surroundings,
and he went to inspect the house himself.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 35
It was on the outskirts of the town and
had a bamboo grove back of it, and it
pleased him very much. In adding to the
house, he wished to have a room where
he could light a stove during the severe
cold of the winter, and he also wished to
have his desk face the west. He had no
other request, but everything must be in
Japanese style; excepting this, he made no
suggestions. If ever I happened to consult
him, he would say, “Well, you do as you
please. I know how to write, that is all,
and you, Mamma-san, know much better.”
He would pay no more attention, and if I
insisted, he would add, “I have no time”;
and he left the entire affair to me.
“When that house is all ready, you
might say, ‘Papa-san, please come to our
new house in Okubo to-day.’ Then I will
say good-bye to this house, and will go to
Okubo just as I would go to the university.
That is all.” I actually did as he requested.
He disliked to lose time. We moved to Nishi
Okubo on the nineteenth day of the third
month, in the 35th year of Meiji (1903).
Everything was made in Japanese style.
Hearn was very fond of Japanese sliding
paper doors. The only Western feature was
3 6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
the glass doors in the room where he had
the stove. Hearn greatly enjoyed the day
on which we moved. As I was helping him
arrange his books on the shelves, he said,
“How delightful this is!” This house was
larger than the one in Tomihisa-cho, and
at that time Okubo was more rural than
it is now; it was extremely quiet, and we
heard the nightingales singing in the bam-
boo grove at the back of the house. Hearn
continued, “It hurts my heart.” I asked,
“Why?” He replied, “It is too pleasant to
last. I pray that we may live here a long
time. But what do you think?”
Hearn avoided all complex society.
Sometimes when a distinguished per-
son paid a call, he would tell the maid to
say that he had no time, and wished to
be excused. It was always embarrassing
for shosei-san and the maids when callers
came to the door. Hearn was so method-
ical a man that he did not wish to meet
any one or make a call that would inter-
rupt his study.
I used to brush out the rooms about
twice every day. It was a diversion for me,
but Hearn said, “You have a mania for
cleaning.” He hated the noise of cleaning.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 37
I always cleaned the house while he was at
the university, or when, he was at home,
I cleaned it before he got up and had his
breakfast. Otherwise, if I asked him to let
me clean, he made me promise to do it in
ve or six minutes. During that time he
walked around the roka (corridor) or in the
garden.
Hearn avoided society and seemed ec-
centric because he valued so highly things
of beauty and of interest and was fond of
them. For that same reason I frequently
observed that he wept when alone by him-
self, and he was irritated or elated in an
abnormal degree. His greatest pleasure
was to live and write in the world of his
imagination. That is why he was a recluse
and was chary of his time.
“Won’t you do something else for plea-
sure besides writing in your own study?” I
would ask him.
“You know very well that my only di-
version is to think and to write. If I have
anything to write, I never get tired. When
I write I forget everything. Please tell me
some stories,” he would reply.
I would say, “I have told you all; I have
none to tell.”
3 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
“Therefore you should go out and see or
hear something interesting, and come back
and tell me all about it. It will never do for
you just to stay at home.”
He wrote with great eagerness, and it
disturbed his work if there was the least
noise of opening and shutting doors, walk-
ing in the corridor, and if the children be-
came unduly excited. Anything of that
nature worried me, and I tried to prevent
those noises from reaching Hearn’s ears.
When I wished to enter his study, I chose
the time when he was singing or hitting
the bowl of his pipe against the hibachi to
empty it. At other times he would not an-
swer, for an interruption or the least noise
irritated him greatly. That was the gen-
eral atmosphere of the entire house.
After we moved to Okubo, the house
was much more spacious and the study was
far from the front door and the children’s
room, so we made it a world of tranquillity
without a single noise. Even then he com-
plained that I broke his train of thought by
opening the bureau drawers, so I made ev-
ery effort to open the drawers more quietly.
On such occasions I always remembered
not to break his beautiful soap-bubble (not
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 39
to destroy his day-dreams). That is how I
thought about it, so I never felt provoked
when he scolded me.
While working on his manuscripts he
frequently made unusual inquiries, and I
often wished, because I was anxious, that
he would not work so hard. When we were
in Matsué I was still young, and I thought
that Hearn was losing his mind. I worried
about it, and asked Mr. Nishida’s opinion,
and found out that he was too deeply in-
terested in his work. Hearn was extremely
fond of ghost stories, and he used to say,
“Books of ghost stories are my treasures.”
I hunted for them from one second-hand
bookstore to another.
On quiet nights, after lowering the wick
of the lamp, I would begin to tell ghost sto-
ries. Hearn would ask questions with bated
breath, and would listen to my tales with a
terried air. I naturally emphasized the ex-
citing parts of the stories when I saw him
so moved. At those times our house seemed
as if it were haunted. I often had horrid
dreams and nightmares. Hearn would say,
“We will stop talking about such things
for a while”; and we would do so. He was
pleased when I told a story he liked.
4 0 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
When I told him the old tales, I always
rst gave the plot roughly; and wherever
he found an interesting place, he made a
note of it. Then he would ask me to give
the details, and often to repeat them. If
I told him the story by reading it from a
book, he would say, “There is no use of
your reading it from the book. I prefer
your own words and phrases — all from
your own thought. Otherwise, it won’t do.”
Therefore I had to assimilate the story be-
fore telling it. That made me dream. He
would become so eager when I reached
an interesting point of a story! His fa-
cial expression would change and his eyes
would burn intensely. This change was ex-
traordinary. For example, take the story
“O Katsu San of Yurei-daké,” in the rst
part of the book, “Kotto.” As I was narrat-
ing that story, his face became extremely
pale and his eyes xed. That was not un-
usual, but this once I suddenly felt afraid.
He sighed one long breath, and said, “Very
interesting!” when I nished it.
He asked me to say, “Alas! blood!” and
repeat it several times. He inquired how
it had probably been said, and in what
tone of voice; what kind of night it was,
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 41
and how the wooden clogs would sound.
“I think it was in this way,” he would
say; “how do you think, yourself?” and so
forth, — all of this was not at all in the
book, — and he would consult with me
about it. Had any one seen us from the
outside, we must have appeared like two
mad people.
The story of “Yoshi-ichi” in the rst
part of “Kwaidan” pleased Hearn exceed-
ingly. He made that story from a very
short one, with great effort and determi-
nation. He wished to make one part of it
sound stronger. He thought that “Mon o
aké (Open the door) was not an emphatic
enough expression for a samurai, and he
made it “Kaimon” (This latter word means
“Open the door,” like the former, but would
be more tting in the speaker’s mouth.)
While we were working on this story of
“Miminashi-Yoshi-ichi,” night fell, but we
lighted no lamp. I went into the adjoin-
ing room, and called out in a small voice,
“Yoshi-ichi! Yoshi-ichi!”
“Yes,” Hearn answered, playing the
part, “I am blind. Who are you?” and re-
mained silent. In this way he worked and
became absorbed in it.
4 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
One day at that time, when I came
home from a walk, I brought a miyagé
(gift) of a little clay gure, a blind musi-
cian playing a biwa (a native four-stringed
lute), and, without saying a word, I left it
on his desk. Hearn, as soon as he noticed
it, was delighted, and exclaimed, “Oh! Yo-
shi-ichi!” as if he saw some one whom he
was expecting to meet. And sometimes
when he heard during the night the swish
of the bamboo leaves in the wind near his
study, he would say, “Ah! there goes a
Heiké!” And when he heard the wind, he
listened to it earnestly, and said, “That is
the waves of the Dan-no-ura!” — “A spot
on the coast near Shimonoseki where the
great Taira or Heiké Clan was extermi-
nated April 25, 1185, by the rival Mina-
moto or Genji Clan led by the intrepid Yo-
shitsune.” (Terry’s Japanese Empire.)
Perhaps I might ask him, “Have you
written that story?” He would reply, “That
story has no brother. I shall still wait for
a while. Perhaps I may see a good brother
coming. I might leave it in a drawer for
seven years, and even then I might come
across a good brother.” This is an example
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 43
of how long it sometimes took him to write
one story.
We both knew the heroine of the “Diary
of a Woman” in “Kotto,” and we kept the
secret and never mentioned her name, but
we often took an offering of incense and
owers to her grave.
While writing “Tanabata” Hearn wept,
and I wept also, and thus we completed
that book.
While writing “Ghostly Japan” Hearn
worked very hard. “This book will kill me,”
he said. “It is no easy matter to write so
large a volume in so short a time; there is
no one to help me, and I think it very try-
ing to accomplish such a task.” This work
was done after his dismissal from the uni-
versity. He felt very hard and provoked be-
cause of his dismissal, and thought that he
had been treated very indifferently. Things
which were of ordinary occurrence Hearn
accepted in a very sensitive manner.
He never had any desire to give his ser-
vices to the university for a long time. “If
it is necessary to spend such long hours in
the university, there will be no time left
for writing,” was his usual complaint, and
4 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
it was n’t the dismissal that troubled him,
but the way in which they treated him.
When the manuscript (of “Ghostly Ja-
pan”) was nished, he was greatly pleased,
and had it wrapped very tightly (he was
very proud of doing up the manuscript se-
curely — sometimes he put in a piece of
board, and made it as heavy as a stone).
He wrote the address neatly, and sent
the manuscript by registered mail. He re-
ceived a cablegram, saying “Good,” and
two or three days later he was dead. He
looked forward eagerly to the publication
of this book. A little while before his death,
he said, “I can hear the noise of the tick-
tack of setting the type for ‘Ghostly Ja-
pan.’” He was anxious to see it published,
but he passed away without that grati-
cation, and it makes me sad, even now, to
think about it.
When he took a pen to write, he kept
his eyes near the paper and began with
great energy. At such times you might call
him, but it would bring no answer, and
he would not move for anything. He was
of a very nervous temperament, but fre-
quently I found him quite oblivious to his
surroundings.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 45
One night about eleven o’clock I opened
the shoji (sliding paper window) and smelt
dense smoke from the oil lamp. To my as-
tonishment I found that the wick of the
lamp was way up and that the room was
dark with smoke. Hearn was almost suffo-
cating, but he was writing so enthusiasti-
cally that he noticed nothing, although he
had a very sensitive nose for odors. I hur-
riedly opened the shoji and let in the air,
and said, “Papa-san! how dangerous it was
that you did not know the lamp was on
re!” He exclaimed, “Why was I so stupid!”
4 6
III
It was our custom for the three chil-
dren to go upstairs and shout, “Papa, come
down; supper is ready!” Hearn always re-
plied, “All right, sweet boys!” and looked
so delighted, sometimes almost dancing
about. But there were occasions when he
was working so hard that even the chil-
dren’s announcement would not bring any
response, and they could get no answer,
“All right!” At such times we might wait
and wait, but he would not appear in the
dining-room. Then I would go up myself,
and say, “Papa-san, we have been waiting
a long time, and all the things will taste
bad. I wish you would hurry up. All the
children are waiting.” Then Hearn would
ask, “What is it?” I would reply, “What’s
the matter with you? This will never do;
it is dinner-time. Won’t you take some
dinner?” “I? Have n’t I had dinner yet? I
thought I had nished it. That’s funny!”
That is the way it would be, and I
would continue, “You had better wake
up from your dream! The tiny children
will cry.” Hearn would reply, “Gomen na-
sai! Pardon me!” and follow me to the
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 47
dining-room. On such occasions he was
funny or absent-minded; he would for-
get to divide the bread with the children,
and would say, “No,” and begin to eat fast.
If the children asked for bread, he would
come to himself and say, “Pardon! pardon!
did n’t I give you any?” and begin to cut
the bread. While cutting it, he would lose
himself again, and eat the piece himself.
Before meals he took a little whiskey,
but later wine was suggested on account
of his health. When absent-minded he of-
ten mistook the whiskey for the wine and
poured it into a glass to drink, or put salt
in his coffee; and when the children drew
his attention to it he would say, “Really!
Is n’t Papa stupid!” and become lost in
thought again. Often I had to say to him,
“Papa-san, it is about time that I should
ask you to wake up from your dream!”
He had no particular preference nor
dislike for any dish. Of the Japanese food,
he liked the pickles and sashimi (raw
sh) or anything else. He began his meal
with the side-dishes and nished it with
one bowl of rice, and of seiyo-ryori (for-
eign food); he was fond of plum-pudding
and a thick cut of beefsteak. He especially
4 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
enjoyed smoking. During dinner he would
talk on different topics. I would tell him
about the news in the Japanese papers,
and he would reciprocate with the news
in the Western papers. The newspapers
which we took for a long time were the
“Yomiuri” and the “Asahi.” While we were
eating, tiny Kiyoshi might peep through
the shoji. The cat and the dog would come
beneath the window. Each one would
share his food with them, and they would
eat very eagerly. When we had nished
dining, we all sang songs together.
Often I found Hearn very much elated
or very sad. Sometimes he would walk the
corridor almost as if he were dancing, and
laughing to himself. When I heard him, I
would ask, “Papa-san, is there anything
amusing?” Then he would burst out laugh-
ing, and laugh until the tears came into
his eyes. This was when he happened to
recall something funny in the paper, or
something amusing that I had told him.
In the same way he would fall into deep
thought, or become absorbed in ghost sto-
ries. Such moods might make one think
that he would n’t tell a joke, but he fre-
quently told very rened jokes. Some one
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 49
said to me that he never met the sensei
(professor) when he did not tell a joke.
When things were amusing, the whole
world appeared amusing, and when he
was sad, it seemed to him that the whole
world was sad. While telling ghost sto-
ries he would transport himself into that
world, or become the hero of the story.
If he felt deeply a story he was hearing,
his face and the color of his eyes would
change. He would say “Such and such a
world,” and used the word world often.
Hearn’s habitual voice was dainty,
like a woman’s, and his way of laughing
was also very feminine; but sometimes
he would become very energetic and ex-
cited in a dainty (sic) talk and would ex-
press himself very powerfully. He had two
ways of laughing. One was dainty, and
the other was uproarious, disregardful of
everything. This laughter made the whole
family laugh, and it was so amusing that
even the maid could n’t help laughing.
At the time of Hearn’s dismissal from
the university, Mr. MacDonald, who was
then stationed in Japan, came every Sun-
day from Yokohama to see him. We of-
ten heard that uproarious laughter of
5 0 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
Hearn’s from the study, and the whole
family laughed too.
There used to be a conch-shell on a ta-
ble in the study. I brought it back as a mi-
yagé, because it was so large, one time
when I went to Enoshima with the chil-
dren. Hearn blew into the shell, and it
made a big noise. He was pleased, saying,
“It sounds so well because I have strong
lungs. What a funny noise!” he added,
puffing out his cheeks. We came to an
agreement. Every time he wished a char-
coal re for lighting his pipe, he was to
blow this conch-shell. When he found no
re, he would blow and make a big noise
that would vibrate in sound-waves, like
“po-wo.” Then it was heard even in the
kitchen. We would keep the house so quiet,
not making the least noise, and then would
come the roar of the conch-shell. Particu-
larly in the evening it sounded extraordi-
nary. I took special care to have a charcoal
re always ready for him, but he wished to
blow the shell; so the minute he saw that
the charcoal was gone, he blew delight-
edly. It must have been fun for him. Of-
ten we were bringing the re, and were al-
ready near his study, when we heard him
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 51
blowing. The maid used to say, laughing,
“There goes the shell!”
When Hearn saw anything well done,
he appreciated it sympathetically.
We often enjoyed going to the exhibi-
tions of paintings in Ueno Park. Hearn
paid no attention to the painters’ names.
When he liked a picture, he paid the price
no matter how dear it was, and would
say, “Very reasonable! very reasonable!”
“How do you like that picture? “ he would
ask me. I might reply, “The price is too
dear.” I would give this answer because
he liked to buy without paying any atten-
tion to the expense. Then he would say,
“No, I’m not speaking about the price, I’m
speaking about the picture. Do you think
it good?” And if I answered in the afrma-
tive, Hearn would continue, “If you think
so, we will buy it. I think that this price
is very reasonable. We ought to pay a lit-
tle more for it.” If the painting was worth
while, he always wished to give more than
the set price, and would ask them to hurry
to stick on the ticket “sold.”
When both of us were sight-seeing
in Kyoto we went to such places as the
temple Chion-in, the Ginkakuji, and the
5 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
Kinkakuji. At those places they had a xed
price of ve or ten sen admission fee, and
when Hearn liked the place he would of-
fer fty sen or one yen (fty cents), and if
I suggested to him that it was unneces-
sary and rather embarrassing, he would
n’t listen to me and would say, “No, no, I
should be ashamed otherwise.” It seemed
very queer to the people in the temples,
and they would ask for his name, but nat-
urally we did not give it.
When we were in Matsué, we took a
walk one day to a near-by temple. Here
we saw a small, stone statue of the Bud-
dhist divinity Jizo that interested us. We
wished to know who had executed it, and,
by inquiring at the temple, we discovered
that the name of the sculptor was Ara-
kawa. This man had good talent, although
he had the reputation of being very eccen-
tric. He had had no education, and was
not ambitious. Though suffering from pov-
erty, this old man could not nish a work
for any one in a given time, and it usu-
ally took him two or three years to do each
piece. Hearn thought that he was inter-
esting, and made him a present of three
large casks of sake (liquor made from rice).
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 53
Later we invited him to our home and gave
him dinner; Hearn also went to call on him
in his own untidy house. Hearn ordered a
piece of sculpture, and paid him more than
he would accept willingly. There is a piece
of sculpture in our house which is by Ara-
kawa, the statue of the Emperor Tenchi,
and though it was not a particularly good
piece of work, Hearn bought it from a
sense of admiration for this “poor genius.”
One summer Hearn and I went to a
dry-goods store to buy two or three yukata.
The salesman showed us a large variety.
That pleased Hearn immensely. He bought
this one and that one, while I kept protest-
ing, saying, “There is no need of buying
so many.” Finally, he bought about thirty
pieces, and astonished the clerks in the
shop by saying, “But, you see, these are
only one and a half or two yen. I do so wish
you to wear different kinds of yukata. Only
to see them on you will give me great plea-
sure.” That is the way in which he would
act when he liked anything.
He was not very keen about the Japa-
nese who wore European costumes. It an-
noyed him especially to see the women in
Western fashions and speaking English.
5 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
Once we went to a bazaar in Ueno
Park. Hearn, pointing to an article, in-
quired its cost very quietly in Japanese of
a saleswoman, who answered him in Eng-
lish. Hearn was disgusted; he pulled my
sleeve and walked away without making
any purchase.
After he accepted the position in
Waseda University, he was invited to
Professor Takada’s house. Mrs. Takada
came to meet him at the door, and said,
“Yoku oidé kudasai mash’ta” (Welcome),
and showed the way. Instead of using Eng-
lish, she spoke in elegant Japanese. That
pleased Hearn so much that he told me
about it as soon as he came back.
While reading a local newspaper, I no-
ticed an article about an aged peer who
loathed Western fashions and liked every-
thing Japanese. The maids in his house
had the obi (girdle) tied in just such a
way, the coiffure arranged in just such a
way, and the kimono long and owing in
the most old-fashioned way, as at court.
There were no modern lamps in the house,
but old-fashioned paper lanterns; no soap
and no Western innovations. Even the
daily newspaper was excluded, and the
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 55
old-fashioned customs were observed by
the household servants. On that account
no one cared to enter his employ, and
would say, “Mappira gomen” (I beg to be
entirely excused).
When I read that account to Hearn,
he said, “How interesting it is!” and he
was greatly delighted. “I simply adore a
person like that; he would be one of my
best friends. I am consumed with desire
to see that house. I have nothing West-
ern about me.”
To this I replied, “You may have nothing
Western about you, but look at your nose!”
And he said, “Oh! what can I do with
my nose? Pity me because of this, for I,
Koizumi Yakumo, truly love Japan more
than any Japanese.”
We had the children wear white tabi
(socks). Hearn liked white ones better
than black ones, and thought it was so nice
to see the Japanese showing their white
tabi beneath their kimono.
Hearn preferred to have the children
wear geta (wooden clogs) than shoes. He
pointed to his own toes: “Look at them! I
don’t wish my children’s toes to become
like that.”
5 6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
He did not like anything in extreme
style. He cared very little about having
his kimono well creased. He was not very
fastidious. He cared for neither a swallow-
tailed nor a Prince Albert coat. He always
said of them, and of white shirts and silk
hats, — “How barbarous they are!”
When we came from Kobé to Tokyo, he
had a Prince Albert coat made for the rst
time at my request. I said, “You must have
a Prince Albert because you are an univer-
sity professor.” He replied, “No; I told Pro-
fessor Toyama that I dislike formal dress.
I will not appear on an occasion where I
have to wear it. Professor Toyama agreed
with me that it would be all right. A Prince
Albert coat would never do.”
He had one made at last, but he wore
it only four or ve times. Whenever he
had to wear it he always made a fuss. He
would put it on unwillingly, saying, “I sim-
ply wear this to please you. Whenever I go
out, you always wish me to put on a new
suit or a Prince Albert, all of which I hate.
This is no joke; I mean it.” I knew that he
did not like it, but I regretfully made him
do so. He thought that it was my fault that
he had to wear them.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 57
Once I said to him jokingly, “Here are
your Prince Albert and silk hat. You must
wear them, for His Majesty has granted
you an audience because you have writ-
ten so much and so well about Japan.” He
replied, “Mappira gomen” the phrase he
had learned awhile before when listening
to the article in the paper about the aged
peer. He liked the sound of the word “Map-
pira” and used it often.
He always wore a sack suit when he
went out, but preferred a kimono or yu-
kata. He never carried a cane nor an um-
brella. It might rain, but he came home
unconscious of it unless it was a torrent.
Then, perhaps, he would take a kuruma
(jinrikisha). He wore army boots, and
was not concerned about the fashions. “A
Japanese laborer’s feet are much hand-
somer than those of a Westerner.” I think
that he always liked Japan better than
the West, and a dream-world better than
this world of reality. He did not fail to
say, “Pleasant dreams,” before retiring.
He was exceedingly pleased to hear tales
about my dreams.
It seems that it was his custom to wear
neither white nor colored shirts. When he
5 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
had to wear one with a Prince Albert, he
wore a collar that was very low. He had
ne taste in everything, but paid very lit-
tle attention to his apparel, and he did not
trouble to be particular, although he al-
ways wore excellent shirts and hats. He
went all the way to Yokohama for his
shirts, and ordered one dozen each time.
The hats that he bought were felt, had a
wide brim, and he chose the best.
He disliked superficial beauty, and
paid no attention to what was in vogue; he
hated anything modern, and loathed pre-
tentious kindness. He did not believe in
false teeth or articial eyes. “They are all
false,” he would say; and disliked them all.
He hated the Christian missionaries as he
found many dishonest people among them;
but he owned three Bibles, and told his el-
dest son that that was the book he must
read a great deal.
Of the Japanese fairy tales, he liked
Urashima Taro the best. When he simply
heard the name Urashima, he exclaimed
aloud with joy. saying, “Ah! Urashima!” He
often stood in the corridor and hummed
the tune, “Haru no hino kasumeru sora
ni, suminoé no . . . !” (“ Misty spring days
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 59
in a far-off land . . . ! “) He remembered
it well. Even I learned it by heart by lis-
tening to him. At the exhibition of paint-
ings in Ueno Park, he bought the picture
of Urashima as soon as he saw it without
asking the price.
He liked hot weather best, and there-
fore enjoyed summer more than the other
seasons. He preferred a western aspect.
His study was built facing the west. He
took great pleasure in the sunsets. When-
ever he saw the sun setting, he called me
and the children. We would hurry to him,
and even then he often said, “You are min-
utes too late. The sunset has begun to be
poor. How disappointed I am for you!” He
would sing, “Yu-yaké, koyaké, asu tenki ni
naré (Great sunset, little sunset, may to-
morrow be good weather), and would make
the children sing too. When we went to
Yakizu, he played on the beach with the
children and with Otokichi, the “Hiraita,
hiraita, nanno hana ga hiraita? Renge
no hana hiraita . . .” (Open, open! what
ower opened? The lotus-ower opened!)
He played with the children very guile-
lessly (sic). He used to sing, and join in
the chorus with the children, that song
6 0 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
called “Has Commander Hirosé died ? “ He
would come out quietly to the room where
the children were playing and singing and
sing the songs with them. Some time ago
the Mitsukoshi store sold cigarette cases
made from the timber that had been used
in the S.S. Fukui Maru. (Commander Hi-
rosé was the idolized hero of Port Arthur,
and the Fukui Maru was the steamer sunk
by him to blockade the harbor channel of
Port Arthur.) On that very day Hearn sang
unexpectedly about Commander Hirosé,
so I thought it a coincidence and kept the
song in the case.
He was interested in “Hokku” (poems
of short stanzas) and remembered many
of them. He put tunes to these poems, and
sang them while talking in the corridor.
Sometimes he himself composed, and at-
tributed his compositions to Basho
1
by
way of jest.
We had an opportunity to see wres-
tling-matches in Matsué. Tani-no-oto,
the ozeki (champion) was there. Hearn
thought that Japanese wrestling was more
interesting than the Western form of the
1
Basho, famous poet.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 61
sport. He often recalled the name of the
champion, and used the name Tani-no-oto
to describe anything fat.
Hearn told me that he used to go to the
theater every day while he was working
as a newspaper reporter in America. He
knew all the famous actors and had asso-
ciated with them as a friend; he had also
frequented the dressing-rooms and stud-
ied the theaters. In Japan, he only went
to the theater twice, once in Matsué and
once in Kyoto. He told me that it caused
him suffering to sit among the audience in
a theater for many hours; but he always
wished to have his children see the plays
by good actors, and often urged me to go
to see them. He asked me not to fail to see
the plays by Danjuro. When I came back
from those plays, I would have to tell him
all about the stage, the audience, and all
the details. He would listen most atten-
tively and delightedly. He wished to meet
Danjuro and ask him questions regard-
ing the theater, but Danjuro died before
Hearn had that opportunity. Hearn of-
ten remarked, before his own death, that
he wished to study the Japanese plays.
Once he asked me to look up information
6 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
concerning the play “Sanjusan-gen-do”
(translated under the title of “The Willow
Tree”). After that, he frequently told me
that he was going to begin his autobiogra-
phy. There were a few parts done, but any
writing concerning the theater was not n-
ished before his death.
I often recall memories of morning-glo-
ries. When the end of autumn drew near,
and the green leaves were beginning to
turn yellow, there was always the last
morning-glory of the season blossoming
so lonesomely by itself. When Hearn saw
that lonely ower, he admired it. “Will you
please look at it? What beautiful courage
and what honest sentiment! Please give it
a word of praise. That dainty ower still
blooms until the end. Just give it a word
of praise!”
That morning the morning-glory ceased
to bloom. My mother thoughtlessly pulled
off the blossom and threw it away. The fol-
lowing morning Hearn went over to the
fence and was greatly disappointed. He
said, “Grandma’s a ne woman, but she per-
formed a sorry deed to the morning-glory.”
One of the children made nger-marks
on a new fusuma (sliding door) with his
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 63
small, untidy hand. Hearn said, “My child
spoiled that beauty!” He always felt keenly
against mutilating or damaging beauty of
any kind. He used to teach the children
that even a picture you could buy for half
a penny would be valuable if it was kept
a long time.
Hearn used to tell me to be suspicious
of people. He was exceedingly honest, and
was easily fooled; he knew this himself,
and that is why he used to talk as he did.
He was a very critical man. For instance,
when he was doing business with publish-
ers in foreign countries, and because he
was so far away, the publisher would take
the liberty of deciding the arrangement of
such things as book-covers and illustra-
tions without consulting Hearn, who was
very particular about all details. At such
times Hearn was often made furiously an-
gry. When he received a letter from the
publishing-house, he would immediately
write back a erce (sic) answer in anger,
and order it to be mailed at once; but then
I would say “Yes,” and hold it over a mail.
Two or three days afterward, when he
had become calm, he would regret that he
had written too severely, and would ask,
6 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
“Mamma-san, have you mailed that let-
ter?” I would answer, “Yes,” and watch to
see whether he really regretted it. If so, I
would give him the letter. He would be im-
mensely pleased, and say, “Mamma-san,
you are the only one!” and would begin a
new letter in a milder tone.
Hearn preferred women of quiet dispo-
sition to those of lively temperament. He
liked bashful, downcast eyes better than
those of Westerners. He liked the eyes of
Kwannon and Jizo (Buddhist divinities).
When we were having our pictures taken,
he always told us to look downward, and
he himself had his picture taken in that
attitude.
Just before our eldest boy came, he
thought that children were lovely, and bor-
rowed one and kept it in our house.
At the time of our eldest son’s birth he
was very pleased, although extremely anx-
ious. He hoped that my delivery would be
easy, and felt sorry for my suffering. And
he said, “On such an occasion I ought to be
studying,” and he went out to the hanaré-
zashiki and worked.
When he heard the new-born baby’s
rst cry, he was affected by a very queer
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 65
feeling a feeling that he had never experi-
enced in all his life. When he saw the baby
the rst time, he could nd no words, and
later told me that he had had no breath,
and he often spoke of it in retrospect. He
loved the baby very much.
The following year he went to Yoko-
hama alone (his only other trip by him-
self had been once to Nagasaki, where he
had intended to stay for a week; but he
came back after one night, saying, “Never
again!”), and returned with a great many
toys. We were all surprised when we saw
so many, and among them we found some
for which he had paid ve and ten yen.
Hearn was an early riser. All the year
round, including New Year’s morning,
he gave a lesson to our eldest son for one
hour. When he was teaching at the univer-
sity, he had to be there at eight o’clock on
Tuesdays, so on that day the lesson was
given in the afternoon. It took one hour
to go to the university and back. During
the daytime, he used to go out for a two
hours’ walk about two or three o’clock,
and sometimes he read and wrote letters
or prepared his lectures; he used to do his
literary work chiey at night. At night, he
6 6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
generally worked until twelve, and I of-
ten found him writing when he was un-
able to sleep.
When our daughter Suzuko came, he
felt that, in his old age, he would be unable
to foresee the girl’s future, and he said,
“What pain is in my heart!” He worried
over it with more sorrow than rejoicing.
When I wished to go out, I made it my
rule to go out on Thursdays, when he had
more hours of lessons at the university. On
the previous day he would kindly advise
me to go out and bring home a nice mi-
yagé. If we saw an article in the newspa-
per mentioning a good play by Danjuro at
the Kabukiza Theater, he would urge me
to go, and would say that I could tell him
all about it and consider that a miyagé.
But he always would add, “You return at
ten or eleven. Until then you are out and
this is not my home. How lonesome it is!
However, I shall be patient and wait for
your interesting tale.”
During his latter years he spoke of poor
health; he depended on me, was devoted
to me like a baby to its mother, and would
wait for my return. When he heard my foot-
step, he would say jokingly, but with great
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 67
delight, “Is that you, Mamma-san?” Should
I be a bit late, he would worry, thinking
that the kuruma had tipped over, or that
some other misfortune had befallen me.
When he wished to hire a kurumaya,
his rst question was, “Does he love his
wife ?” And if my answer were in the afr-
mative, he would say, “That is all right!”
There was one person whom Hearn held in
high esteem, but was greatly worried be-
cause he had such a stern expression to-
ward his wife.
Just before Hearn’s death a famous
personage asked for an interview. There
was, however, a man of the same name in
England who had the reputation of abus-
ing women, and Hearn thought that this
person might be the one, and intended to
refuse the request. Then he discovered
that it was some one else and decided to
meet him, but died before the interview.
He became so angry with any one who
abused the weak — women or children. I
cannot mention them here individually,
but there were many people who were once
very intimate with Hearn and from whom
he afterward became estranged because of
these same reasons.
6 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
Hearn was provoked when he heard
about any Japanese who had deserted his
wife, or anything of that kind.
Hearn would have done anything for
us, his wife and children. He did worry al-
most pitiably about things; for instance,
about his naturalization and about em-
ployment for which he did not care.
He hated such innovations as electric
cars. There were many occasions on which
we could have had a telephone installed,
but he would never listen to that propo-
sition. He chose rather to have more ser-
vants than a telephone. At that time there
was no electric nor gas light, but I don’t
think that he would have used them even
if we had had them. He did not take a sin-
gle ride on an electric car, and told us not
to ride.
He objected to ride in the railway train
when we were going to Yakizu. He wished
to ride in a kuruma when he was tired of
walking, but it was only necessary for him
to be patient for seven hours, so we took the
train. He thought how wonderful it would
be if every one walked and there were no
such things as trains. He liked to travel on
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 69
boats; he said that he would enjoy the trip
to Yakizu if he could go by boat.
When Hearn was coming to Japan,
there was a great storm during the voyage.
Everything on deck was washed away; the
excitement was intense; even the sailors
were seasick; he was the only one who felt
as usual and asked for meals, and that as-
tonished the people on the boat.
One time he came back from a walk
and told me this story delightfully. “While
passing through a part of Sendagaya, a
student came and asked me in broken
English: ‘You, from where?’ so I answered,
‘Okubo.’ ‘Your country, which?’ and I said,
‘Japan.’ The student asked again, ‘You,
what nationality?’ and I replied, ‘Jap-
anese.’ The student did not say another
word, and looked at me curiously. He fol-
lowed me. I was quiet, and walked on. And
that student came as far as my gate, dis-
covered the name on the gate, and then ex-
claimed, ‘Hah! Koizumi Yakumo! Koizumi
Yakumo !’” (Hearn’s Japanese name.) That
incident amused Hearn.
Hearn told another story. “One day,
while in America, a stranger came to me
7 0 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
and borrowed a book. I did not get his
name, nor did he take my name. About a
year later he returned the book to me, in-
vited me to a large restaurant, and gave
me a very good dinner. But even now I do
not know who it was.”
71
IV
In the 37th year of Meiji, September
19, at three o’clock in the afternoon, I went
to his study. He was walking round, put-
ting his hands on his breast.
“Are you not well?” I asked.
“I have a new kind of sickness.”
I inquired, “What kind?”
“Sickness of heart, I think.”
“I think that you worry too much. You
had better rest quietly.”
This was my word of consolation for
him.
Immediately I sent a two-man jinriki-
sha for Dr. Kizawa, our family physician.
Hearn never wished to have me or the
children see him troubled. He told me that
I had better go away and not worry; but I
was worried, and I stayed there near his
desk. He started to write something, and
I advised him to keep quiet.
Hearn asked me to leave him alone,
and nished his writing. He said, “This is
a letter to Ume-san. If trouble comes, he
will help you. Perhaps, if this pain of mine
increases, I may die. If I die, do not weep.
Buy a little urn; you can nd one for three
7 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
or four sen. Put my bones in it, and bury it
near a quiet temple in the country. I shall
not like it if you cry. Amuse the children
and play cards with them — how much
better I shall enjoy that! There will be no
need of announcing my death. If any one
asks, reply, ‘Oh, he died some time ago!’
That will be quite proper.”
I asked him not to talk so sadly. When
I said that to him, he replied, “I am very
serious. Honestly, from my heart,” he said,
emphatically. Then he added, “No use,”
and rested quietly.
Several minutes later he stood up and
said, “I have no more pain. I wish to take
a bath.” He wanted a cold bath, and took
one in the bathroom.
“The pain has gone entirely. Strange —
I feel very well. Mamma-san, the sickness
has left me,” he said. “How about a little
whiskey for me?”
I thought to myself, “Whiskey is not
good for the heart”; but he insisted.
I said, “I don’t know. However, if you
wish some badly, I will give you some with
water.”
I gave him a glass, and he raised the
glass to his lips and said, “I shall not die.”
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 73
It made me feel better. Then he told
me that he had had this particular pain
for several days. “I will rest a little while,”
he said, and got on to the bed with a book.
In the mean time the doctor had come.
Hearn said, “What shall I do?” He left his
book and went into the guest-room, where
he received the doctor. He said, laugh-
ingly, “You must excuse me, my sickness
is gone.”
After the doctor had examined him, he
told us that there was nothing serious the
matter, and, as usual, talked and joked.
Hearn was almost always in good
health. He dreaded like a child to have
a doctor examine him, or to take medi-
cine. He would not have a doctor unless
I begged him to. When he was a trie ill,
and I failed to get a doctor in time, he
would say to me afterwards, “I am greatly
pleased that you forgot the doctor.”
Hearn, when he was not writing, would
walk around the room, or up and down the
roka, thinking things. Even when he was
sick, he was not the kind of man who could
stay in bed.
Two or three days before he died,
Osaki, the maid, told me that the cherry
7 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
tree was blossoming out of season (kaer-
izaki) in the garden by the studio. (In my
household things like that are of great in-
terest. To-day some little bamboo-sprouts
have shot up in the woods; look! a yel-
low buttery is itting about; Kazuo, my
son, found a little ant-hill; a toad came
to the door; or the sunset is full of beau-
tifully changing colors.) Such details as
these drew more attention from us than
if they had been important matters, and
Hearn was informed of every one of these
incidents. He was delighted to hear about
them. It seems funny that this gave us so
much pleasure. Toads, butteries, ants,
spiders, cicadas, bamboo-sprouts, and sun-
sets were among Papa-san’s best friends.
Now, in Japan, kaerizaki (to have the
cherry tree blossom out of season) is not a
sign of good fortune, so it worried me a lit-
tle. But when I told Hearn about it, he was
delighted, and replied, “Arigato” (Thanks).
He went near the edge of the roka, or nar-
row veranda that runs around the outside
of our house, and, looking at the owers,
said, “Hello.” He added, “’It is warm like
spring,’ the cherry tree thought. ‘Ah! this
is my world again’; and blossomed.”
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 75
Meditating a little while, he said again,
“Pity! soon it will become cold and fright-
ened, and die.”
The owers bloomed just one day, on
the 27th; in the evening all the petals had
uttered to the ground. This cherry tree
blossomed every season, and Hearn loved
it. Probably the cherry tree remembered
that, and blossomed to bid him farewell.
Hearn used to get up early in the
morning; but as he feared to disturb our
dreams, he always waited in his studio,
sitting by the hibachi (bronze bowl of
lighted charcoal) and smoking quietly.
He preferred a long kind of pipe. He
had about a hundred of them. The old-
est one he had the year he came, and
the others had been added. Each pipe
was carved. Among the carvings were:
Urashima (the Rip van Winkle of Ja-
pan); the kinuta of autumnal nights (the
kinuta is a wooden mallet used by women
to pound linen); eggplants; praying de-
mons; crows on a leaess branch; uten-
sils of the tea-ceremony; and verses of po-
ems, for instance, “To-night of last year.”
These were the favorite ones among the
hundred.
7 6 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
It seems that it was interesting to him
to smoke these. He chose one from many,
and always looked first at the mouth-
piece and the bowl, then lighted it. Sit-
ting on the oor-cushion very correctly,
he rocked himself slowly back and forth,
and smoked.
The day he died, the morning of the
26th, about half-past six, I went to his
study. He was already up and smoking. I
greeted him: “Good-morning!”
He seemed to be thinking about some-
thing. Then he said, “I had a very unusual
dream last night.”
We always talked about our dreams. I
inquired what kind of a dream it was.
He replied, “I traveled for a very long
distance. Now that I am smoking here, it
hardly seems to have been a real journey.
It was like a dream,” he continued; “not a
journey in Europe, nor in Japan — it was
a strange place.” He seemed to be enjoy-
ing himself.
Before they went to bed, it was the cus-
tom for our three children to say, “Papa-
san, good-night, pleasant dreams.” And
their Papa-san replied, “ The same to you.”
Or, in Japanese, “Yoki yume mimasho.”
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 77
That morning Kazuo, my son, before
going to school, came and said, “Good-
morning.” To this greeting his Papa-san
replied, “Pleasant dreams.” “The same to
you,” said Kazuo.
At eleven o’clock in the morning he was
walking up and down the roka. He saw a
kakemono (painting) depicting the sun-
rise, in the library tokonoma (raised re-
cess at one end of a room). This is a picture
of early morning. Many crows are ying
around, and it looks like a scene from a
dream. Hearn made the remark: “What
beautiful scenery! I should like to live in a
place like that.”
He bought many kakemono. He did not
decide to hang this one or that one, but
left the choice to me. He enjoyed looking at
whichever one I hung. He looked at it as a
visitor would, and was pleased. He had a
very aesthetic taste, I think. He liked tea
and drank it with pleasure. When I made
tea he played the part of a guest. He did
not perform the intricate details, but he
understood the principle of the cha-no-yu,
or tea-ceremony.
Hearn enjoyed listening to singing in-
sects. That autumn we had a matsu-mushi
7 8 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
(insects like crickets). Toward the end of
September, when the song of insects is
hushed, it made us all feel sad to hear the
matsu-mushi.
I asked Hearn, “Do you hear that
noise?”
He replied, “That poor little insect has
sung for us beautifully. How much I en-
joyed it! As the weather grows colder and
colder, does it know that it will have to die
soon? Poor, sad little insect!” After saying
that, so piteously, he continued, “Some of
these warm days we had better let it go
into the bushes.”
The early blossoming of the cherry tree,
the dream of a long journey, and the dying
song of the matsu-mushi must have been
signs of his death, of which it makes me
very, very sad to think, even to-day.
In the afternoon he asked, “What book
shall we send to Fujizaki-san, who is in
the Manchurian campaign?” He looked for
the book on the library shelves, and after-
wards wrote a letter to his friend.
While he was eating supper he looked
unusually happy, and joked and laughed
loudly. “Papa-san, good Papa-san!” —
“Sweet chickens!” — He talked with the
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 79
children, and, as usual, walked round the
library roka.
In a little less than an hour he came
back to me with a drawn face, and said
quietly, “Mamma-san, the sickness of the
other day has come back again.”
I went with him. For a little while he
walked around the room with his hands on
his breast. I advised him to lie quietly on
the bed, and he did so. Very soon after that
he was no longer of this world.
He died without any pain, having a lit-
tle smile around his mouth. It could not
be helped, if it was the order of Heaven. I
wish that I could have taken care of him,
and given all my strength in nursing him.
This was too easy a death for me.
1
1
A literal translation, which means that Mrs. Hearn
regretted having been given no opportunity to
show her love and devotion before death. — t
He
tRansLatoR.
8 0
V
I may name again some things that
Hearn liked extremely: the west, sunsets,
summer, the sea, swimming, banana trees,
cryptomerias (the sugi, the Japanese ce-
dar), lonely cemeteries, insects, “Kwaidan”
(ghostly tales), Urashima, and Horai
(songs) . The places he liked were: Mar-
tinique, Matsué, Miho-no-seki, Higosaki,
and Yakizu. He was fond of beefsteak and
plum-pudding, and enjoyed smoking. He
disliked liars, abuse of the weak, Prince
Albert coats, white shirts, the City of New
York, and many other things. One of his
pleasures was to wear the yukata in his
study and listen quietly to the voice of the
locust.
We often took walks together, crossing
the bridge of Ochiai to the neighborhood of
Arai-no-yakushi. Every time that Hearn
saw the chimney of the Ochiai crematory,
he would think, as he said, that he himself
would soon come out as smoke from that
chimney. He always liked quiet temple
grounds. Had there been a temple, a very
small and dilapidated building with walls
overgrown with weeds, it would have been
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 81
an ideal resting-place for Hearn’s body.
But such a place was hard to nd quickly.
His wish was to have a small tombstone
invisible from the outside he always spoke
of that. But it was nally decided that the
service should be held at the Kobudera
temple, and he was buried in the ceme-
tery of Zoshigaya.
As previously mentioned, Hearn had
lost interest in the Kobudera temple, but
there were many ties from former days.
More recently we had associated with the
abbot of the temple Denbo-in, in Asakusa.
We asked the abbot to ofciate, and then
the services were held at Kobudera. Hearn
was interested in the Zen sect.
The Zen sect, founded by Dharma
(Daruma) in India, in A.D. 513, and
brought by him to China, was introduced
thence into Japan by the bonze Dosho, in
the seventh century. Rejected at rst, it
was revived in 1192 by the bonze Eisei,
who is regarded as its founder in Nippon.
It is sometimes called the “sect of contem-
plation,” and its doctrines, as interpreted
by the many scholarly men who adopted
them, have made, perhaps, the greatest
8 2 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
impression of any of the sects on the na-
tional thought and life. Its teachings are
based upon the principle that every one
may arrive at the knowledge of the law
and nature of Buddha by meditation, with-
out being inuenced by dissenting beliefs.
Perchance because its adoption by the
Japanese was coeval with the establish-
ment of military feudalism, its dogmas
found special favor among the samurai
of old Japan, since their tendency was to
render one indifferent to danger or death.
The most powerful of its branches, the
Sodo-shu, was founded by Dosen in 1227.
Daruma is specially revered in the Zen
temples, where he is portrayed as an un-
shaven (and somewhat rufanly) ascetic,
clad in a red robe and lost in deep medita-
tion. According to tradition he sat for nine
years in uninterrupted contemplation and
remained so motionless that his legs rot-
ted off. His image is a favorite one for toys
and as a tobacconist’s sign. Dosho is said
to have been the rst to introduce crema-
tion into Japan.
1
1
Terry’s Japanese Empire, page cxcix.
s e t s u k o k o i z u m i 83
But the house of Koizumi was origi-
nally of the Jodo sect, so perhaps the tem-
ple Dentsu-in might have been preferable;
however, at that time the temple was not
kept up and I did not feel like going there.
The cemeteries in the temple grounds
were often removed, and I did not consider
it quite safe to bury him in such a place,
so we chose a public cemetery about which
we did not have to worry. The cemetery at
Aoyama was too modern, and Hearn never
liked it. We decided upon the public cem-
etery of Zoshigaya because it was quieter
and had a better location. Moreover, Zosh-
igaya was a place that Hearn used to like
to visit. Once he asked us to accompany
him to a ne place, and took me and the
children to Zoshigaya.
While taking walks around Kishibojin,
he often asked me how I liked the cawing
of the crows. The localities along the way
from Sekiguchi to Zoshigaya were excel-
lent, and Hearn said that he wished he
were twenty years younger, he should so
like to build a house on the top of a certain
hill. It was too bad he could not.
8 4 R e m i n i s c e n c e s o f L a f c a d i o H e a R n
He and I took a walk together to look
at gates in the neighborhood of Zoshigaya,
as we wished to alter our own front gate.
It was about two weeks before his death,
and it was the last walk that he and I were
to take together. The work of altering our
gate was begun two days before his death,
and after his death we hurried to have it
ready in time for the funeral.
THE END
Places mentioned:
Bingo Province 1
Hoki Province 2
Izumo 3
Kitabori 4
Kizuki shrine (Tokyo)
Kobé 5
Kumamoto 6
Kyoto 7
Lake Togo 8
Matsué 9
Nikko 10
Okayama 11
Oki Island 12
Okubo (Tokyo)
Sakai 13
Shimoichi 14
Tokyo 15
Yonago 16
Zaimokucho 17
Zoshigaya (Tokyo)